322 THIRD JOURNEY TO THE CAUCASUS. 



modernized everlasting fires, the "black town", and 

 a number of interesting architectural remains of the 

 time when it was the residence of the Persian Khans, 

 the town offers few attractions for the stranger. But 

 with favourable weather he may procure himself the 

 pleasure of setting the Caspian Sea on fire, if he 

 makes an excursion in an iron" steamer to a place not 

 far from the coast, where inflammable gases rise from 

 the sea-bottom. In calm weather these may be ignited 

 and then. form a sea of flame around the ship, often 

 lasting a considerable time. 



We made the return-journey by land via Moscow 

 and St. Petersburg. In crossing the great Caucasus 

 we traversed grandly beautiful wild mountain -valleys 

 in the depression at the foot of Kasbek. But if one 

 wishes thoroughly to enjoy their beauty it is better 

 to travel in the reverse direction, for the wild Terek 

 valley, which forms the northern slope of the mountains, 

 is so quickly traversed in descending, that one has 

 hardly time to enjoy the charms of the surrounding 

 country; a further drawback being the disagreeably 

 abrupt bendings of the otherwise marvellous road, when 

 passed over at full speed. From Vladi-Kavkas, the com- 

 mencement of the Russian railway-network, we travelled 

 to Moscow in three days without break of journey. Un- 

 fortunately, owing to the cloudy weather of the first 

 day, the fine views of the great Caucasus, especially the 

 towering Elbrus, escaped us. The numerous cairns on 

 both sides of the road were highly interesting. They 

 prove that for long periods of time a relatively high 



