THE OYSTEK. 43 



to distinguish it, as may be seen in the following lines 

 ascribed to Lucilius. 



*' When I but see tlie oyster's shell, 

 I look and recognize the river, marsh or mud, 

 Where it was raised." 



jS'or was this so very difEcult a matter, for the shell, 

 no less than the animal itself, as has already been 

 shown, exhibits the nature of the food upon which the 

 oyster has fed. 



In Italy and Gaul it was for a long time a matter of 

 dispute, which country produced the best oysters. At 

 that time the Lucrine Sea maintained the superiority ; 

 but Pliny preferred those from Cii'ce. '' According to 

 my opinion," he says, ''the most delicious and most 

 tender oysters are those from Circe." 



At last, however, the preference was given to those of ' 

 Britain, which under the wise administration of Julius 

 Agricola had conformed to the manners and customs of 

 her conquerors, and there no longer was need of dispute 

 as to whether the Mediterranean oysters of Italy or 

 Gaul should have the precedence. The little watery 

 pulpy dabs, which had hitherto delighted the conquerors 

 of the world, were cast aside in disgust. They had 

 found a real oyster at last, and the insignificant and 

 flavourless bivalves of the coasts of Italy ceased to be in 

 demand. From that time, on the shores of the Atlantic, 

 thousands of slaves were employed in procuring the 

 oysters, which in Eome were paid for by their weight 

 in gold. The expenses were so great that the censors 

 felt themselves obliged to interfere. I^ot content with 

 getting their oysters from distant shores, they had means 



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