THE OYSTER. 57 



table finds an oyster-knife and a clean coarse towel by 

 the side of his plate, and he is expected to open oysters 

 for himself and the lady seated by his side, unless she 

 is wise enough to open them for herself. Ey the side of 

 every plate is the ijanis ostrearlus, the oyster-loaf 

 made and baked purposely for the occasion, and all 

 down the centre of the table, interspersed with vases of 

 bright holly and evergreens, are plates filled with pats 

 of butter, or lemons cut in half, and as many vinegar 

 and pepper castors as the establishment can farnish. 

 As the attendance of servants at such gatherings is 

 usually dispensed with, bottled Bass or Guinness, or 

 any equally unsophisticated pale ale or porter, is liberally 

 provided ; and where the means allow, light continental 

 wines, such as Chablis, Sauterne, Mousseux, ITarsault 

 or Medoc, still Champagne, Moselle, or any light Rhen- 

 ish wine, and failing any of these, Madeira or Sherry, 

 are placed upon the table. In this list is contained the 

 names of such wines only as are best suited to enhance 

 the taste of the oyster, and to assist digestion. Of spirits, 

 Duly good English gin, genuine Schiedam, or Irish or 

 Scotch whisky, are admissible, as rum and brandy, 

 i:aken upon oysters, will almost always be sure to 

 nake them indigestible ; and liqueurs are quite out of 

 place. 



At some of these oyster suppers, oysters roasted in the 

 hell are brought in '^ hot and hot," and dishes of Med, 

 5tewed, and scolloped oysters foUow each other in quick 

 iuccession, and even oyster patties are sometimes intro- 

 luced ; but I hold up both hands against an American 

 unovation which is creeping in, and introducing crabs 



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