410 Rural Architecture. 



the building may stand in the ordinary way, flush with the 

 outside of the stone wall, as represented in Fig. 203 B. In 

 both cases the wall should be finished sloping as shown in 

 the drawings* 



510. Cementing the Bottom. After the silo has been 

 completed the ground forming the bottom should be thor- 

 oughly tamped so as to be solid aiid then covered with two 

 or three inches of good concrete made of 1 of cement to 3 

 or 4 of sand and gravel. The amount of silage which will 

 spoil on a hard clay floor will not be large, but enough to 

 pay a good interest on the money invested in the cement 

 floor. If the bottom of the silo is in dry sand or gravel the 

 cement bottom is imperative to shut out the soil air. 



511. Tying Top of Wall In case the wood portion of the 

 silo rises 24 or more feet above the stone work and the 

 diameter is more than 18 feet it will be prudent to stay the 

 top of the wall in some way. 



If the woodwork rises from the outer edge of the wall, 

 then building the wall up with cement so as to cover the 

 sill and lining as represented in Fig. 207 will give 

 the needed strength, because the wood-work will act as a 

 hoop ; but if the silo stands at the inner face of the wall, it 

 will be best to lay pieces of iron rod in the wall near the top 

 to act as a hoop. 



Where the stone portion of the silo is high enough to 

 need a door it is best to leave enough wall between the top 

 and the sill to allow a tie rod of iron to be bedded in this 

 portion. So, too, the lower door in the woodwork of the 

 silo should leave a full foot in width below it of lining and 

 siding uncut to act as a hoop, where the pressure is 

 strongest. 



512. Sills and Studding. The sill in the all-wood silo 

 may be made of a single 2x4, cut in 2-foot lengths, in the 

 manner represented in Fig. 201 and described under the 

 brick lined silo. 



