82 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. 



we reached the top at ten a.m., where we found the 

 Summit Tavern. Here we all had some refreshments, 

 served by a civil, tidy young Scotchwoman, wife of the 

 proprietor ; and, further, we purchased a lot of scones, 

 for present and future consumption. 



Half an hour afterwards we outspanned in a large, 

 well-watered valley, abundantly supplied with grass, 

 among about thirty Boers' wagons. Long before our 

 dinner was cooked, quite a number of these people 

 visited us ; our ways, and particularly our ablutions, 

 appearing to create great astonishment among them. 

 A quantity of coffee was made, and each presented 

 with a cup. Of this beverage they all are exceed- 

 ingly fond, and use with it immense quantities of sugar. 

 Our courtesy doubtlessly put them on their good be- 

 haviour. 



William informed me that we must get two good 

 heavy after-oxen, that if not we should have great 

 trouble in getting over the Drackenberg, in fact, probably 

 with our weak team not accomplish it, and that now 

 was our chance ; for among the numerous Dutchmen 

 assembled here there must be some good beasts to be 

 obtained. Since we had landed in Natal our purse had 

 never been out of our hands, and we earnestly hoped that 

 now rest was in store for it. Still, if two after-oxen must 

 be had, there was no help for it, so, at least if any 

 beasts worth having could be obtained, they had better 

 be sent for. 



The specimens of the Boers that I saw here were 

 very prepossessing in appearance stalwart, fair men 

 often handsome in features, but invariably dirty, rude 

 in manner possibly resulting from moroseness how- 

 ever, evincing the most earnest willingness to eat and 



