AND WINE MAKING. 153 



room into the casks in the fermenting cellar in the same 

 manner. 



We should keep in mind, in all operations, the kind of 

 wine we intend to make. In white and light-colored 

 wines, we desire delicacy of bouquet and smoothness of 

 taste ; in red wines for medicinal or stomachic use, we de- 

 sire astringency, body, and a decided and characteristic 

 flavor. White and light-colored wines should, therefore, 

 be racked as soon as they are clear, while red wines may 

 remain longer on the lees. Both can be modified, by 

 treatment, to meet the peculiar taste ; a red wine may be 

 made smoother, and a white wine more astringent, by 

 longer or shorter fermentation on the husks and lees. We 

 can thus conform to the taste of the consumer. If the 

 prevailing taste is for light-colored, smooth and delicate 

 wines, we can make them so, by pressing soon, and rack- 

 ing soon and frequently. If a dark-colored, astringent 

 wine is desired, we can ferment on the husks, and leave 

 it on the lees a longer period. There is a medium course 

 in this, as in all things, and the intelligent wine-maker 

 will soon find the rules which should guide him, and 

 with a little practice discover the method which will give 

 him the best results with a certain variety. 



Among the varieties suited for white wines, and which 

 should be treated as such, I will name the Elvira, Goethe, 

 Herbemont, Martha, Massasoit, Uhland, Catawba, Dela- 

 ware, and Taylor, and among the varieties for dark-red 

 wines, Cynthiana, Norton's Virginia, Lenoir, Alvey, 

 Clinton, and Ives' Seedling. The Concord can be used 

 for both, or can be made light-red. For Sherry wine, use 

 the Hermann, Kalander, and Cunningham. These latter 

 require a sort of medium treatment ; it is desirable to 

 develop their peculiar flavor ; it is not desirable to have 

 them astringent or dark-colored. Fermenting on the 

 husks 24 to 36 hours, in a temperature of 60 to 70, will 

 be about right for them. It' is very important that the 



