Chap. V. FNIIABITANTS OF THE CITY. 77 



dotted with houses and villages, while it forms an emerald 

 setting to the white city. Looking from the other side of 

 Arequipa, the view, though not so beautiful, is more imposing : 

 the snow-capped volcano rearing its majestic head above the 

 stunted towers of the town. There is a great deal of maize 

 grown in the valley, and guano is extensively used as manure ; 

 but the wealth of the campina is chiefly derived from its 

 mules, which monoi^olize the carrying-trade from the coast 

 to Arequipa, and from Arequipa to the interior. A quan- 

 tity of lucerne or alfalfa is raised for their sustenance, and the 

 arrieros or muleteers are a wealthy class of men, generally 

 possessing a chacra or farm of their own, besides considerable 

 sums in ready money. They are, as a rule, good-looking, 

 well-grown men, with fresh complexions, and little mixed 

 blood, which is also made evident by the comparatively fair 

 complexions of their wives and daughters. 



The families of the upper classes of Arequipa usually own 

 estates in the neighbouring warm valleys of the coast, such 

 as Vitor, Tambo, Siguas, Majes, and Camana, where the rich 

 vineyards yield them a profitable return by the sale of aguar- 

 diente. Their houses in the city are built round a patio or 

 courtyard, on which the principal rooms open. Their sons 

 are frequently the leaders of the turbulent Cholos in revolt, 

 and follow the professions of ahogados, lawyers or politicians, 

 traders, and haciendados or farmers, while the more ambitious 

 adopt a military life, the carrera de armas. The ladies are 

 considered the most beautiful and intelligent in Peru, and, at 

 Lima, the most attractive women are usually Arequipenas. 

 Perhaps the majority have never moved beyond the campiiia, 

 and adjacent warm valleys, and many have never seen the 

 sea. Yet they are sprightly and agreeable in society, full of 

 intelligent curiosity, and almost invariably excellent musi- 

 cians. They frequently sing the plaintive despedidas, and 

 other sonnets of their native poet Melgar, whose love for a 



