92 AN OFFICER IN TRAVELLING COSTUME, Chap. VI. 



The river dashes noisily over huge boulders, and near its 

 left bank are the rough stone buildings of the post-house. 

 Great quantities of ducks, gulls, coots, godwits, and sand- 

 pipers frequent the shores of the lake. The postmaster 

 supplied alfalfa for the mules, and a chupe consisting of 

 potatoes and salt mutton for the travellers, at exorbitant 

 prices ; the mules were freed from their cargoes, which were 

 placed within the porch, ready lashed up in their redecillas or 

 hide nets ; and we were soon rolled up in blankets and pon- 

 chos, while the snow continued to fall unceasingly through 

 the early part of the night. When we got up next morning 

 the thermometer was at 31° Fahr, indoors. 



Starting at dawn, we descended the gorge, passing two 

 ruined mining establishments, San Eamon and Santa Lucia, 

 into green plains with large flocks of sheep scattered over them. 



In these uninhabited wilds it is an event to meet a 

 traveller, and his appearance is the signal for a succession 

 of questions and answers. We here passed a cavallero, in 

 whose dress and general appearance we saw a reflection of 

 our own, excepting the comforters. He wore a large poncho 

 of bright colours, reaching nearly to his heels ; a broad-brim- 

 med felt hat with a blue cotton handkerchief passed over 

 it, and tied in a knot under his chin ; an immense woollen 

 comforter passed round his throat and face, until nothing 

 appeared but his eyes ; a pair of woollen gaiters, bright green, 

 with black stripes ; and huge spurs. He was an ofScer on 

 his way to Arequipa, and complained of the severity of the 

 weather and the heaviness of the roads. After a short 

 conversation the traveller passed on, followed by his cargo- 

 mules, and soon became a speck in the distance. 



In the afternoon we came to the first signs of cultivation, 

 since leaving the valley of Cangallo, in the neighbourhood of 

 the great sheep-farm of Taya-taya — patches of quinoa, barley, 

 and potatoes, with the huts of Inchans scattered amongst 



