192 AZANGARO— THE CHURCH. Chap. XL 



mark, whence a line was to be measured in some particular 

 direction, and to a certain distance, to denote the spot under 

 which the treasure was deposited. Yet the searches have not 

 been wholly unsuccessful. There are several subterranean 

 passages and chambers under Azangaro, and one was dis- 

 covered a few years ago which had been made by the Indians 

 in ancient times. It led towards the plaza, and ended in 

 a recess, where there were several mummies, adorned with 

 golden suns and armlets, and golden semispheres covering 

 their ears — now the property of my host, Don Luis Quiiiones. 

 Azangaro is par excellence the city of hidden treasure. 

 The houses are built of mud and straw, and thatched with 

 coarse grass [stipa ychu), the better sort being whitewashed. 

 To the north of the town there is a long ridge of rocky 

 heights ; to the south an isolated peaked hill nearly over- 

 hangs the town ; to the east is the river ; and to the west 

 is a plain bounded by the mountains towards Pucara. The 

 church, in the plaza, is like a large barn outside, with walls 

 of mud and straw, and a tower with broad-brimmed red-tiled 

 roof ; but on entering it I was astonished at its extraordinary 

 magnificence, so entirely out of proportion to the wealth or 

 importance of this little town. The nave is lined with large 

 pictures on religious subjects, by native artists, in frames of 

 carved wood richly gilt. The elaborate gilded carving was 

 very striking ; . the leaves, bunches of grapes, and twisted 

 columns, being the Vvorkmanship of the famous caryers of 

 Cuzco. Over the arch leading to the chancel there is a picture 

 representing the Triumph of the Faith, in bright colours. The 

 high altar is plated with massive silver, with gilded columns, 

 pictm-es, and images, in gorgeous profusion up to the roof. 

 On either side are two very remarkable pictures, filling the 

 walls between the altar and the chancel-arch. On the rioht 

 an allegorical picture, and the Shepherds worshipping. 

 One figure, in the latter picture, a girl holding a basket on 



