Chap. XITI. SANDTA. 221 



are unable to speak any language but Qnichua ; and tliua 

 they seem to be more closely united in interests and feelings 

 with the mass of the population than in any other part of 

 Peru. The Indians of the district of Sandia are divided into 

 six ayllus or tribes, besides the inhabitants of the \dllages of 

 Sandia, Cuyo-cuyo, and Patambuco. These ayllus are estab- 

 lished on the mountains around Sandia, living in scattered 

 huts, some cultivating maize and potatoes, others raising 

 barley and alfalfix for mules. The ayllus are called Laque- 

 que, about a league up the i-iver, on the right bank ; Cuyo- 

 cuyo (not the village), behind mount Camparacani ; Oruro, 

 on the heights below Cuyo-cuyo ; Quiaca (not the village), 

 near Oruro ; Quenequi, about a league down the river ; and 

 Apabuco, behind mount Catasuyu. The population of the 

 parish of Sandia is about 7000 ; 4000 in Sandia and its six 

 ayllus, 2000 in the village and ravine of Cuyo-cuyo, and 1000 

 in Patambuco. As many as 1000 souls fell victims to the 

 dreadful pestilence of 1855, which raged over all parts of the 

 Andes of Peru. Nearly every Indian family, besides land 

 near Sandia, owns a small farm of coca or coffee down in the 

 montana, to which men, women, and children go at harvest- 

 time. As in all parts of the Andes, so in the Sandia ravine, 

 I constantly found the Indians civil, obliging, and respectful, 

 always saluting with an " Ave Maria Taytay ! " and a touch 

 of the hat in passing. They are reserved and silent, it is 

 true, and superficial observers take this for stupidity. Never 

 was there a greater mistake : their skill in carving and all 

 carpenter's work, in painting and embroidery, the exquisite 

 fabrics they weave from vicuna-wool, the really touching 

 poetry of their love-songs and yaravis, the traditional histories 

 of their ayllus, which they preserve with religious care, surely 

 disprove so false a charge. 



The houses in Sandia are tlie merest barns, with mud- 

 walls, and roofs which let the water in. All the family sleep 



