Chap. XXVI. MERCARA— THE FORT. 439 



down a succession of wooded heights, which gradually in- 

 crease in elevation, with intermediate valleys cultivated with 

 rice and generally fringed with plantain-groves, through 

 which the huts of the Coorgs are visible. At the heads of 

 these valleys the streams are divided into two channels, and 

 led down each side, the space between being sown with rice 

 in terraced fields, gradually descending with the slope of the 

 valley. These bright patches of cultivation are very pretty, 

 with their hght vivid green contrasting with the sombre hues 

 of the forest. Near Mercara the jungle is a good deal 

 cleared, and the slopes are covered with coffee-plants. The 

 road is excellent. 



Towards evening we came in sight of Mercara, by far the 

 prettiest place I have seen in India. On the opposite side of 

 a deep narrow valley was the fort and palace, built on an 

 eminence overlooking a vast extent of mountainous, forest- 

 covered country. The palace is surrounded by a fortified 

 wall of dark-coloured stone, with semicircular bastions at 

 intervals. On the wall facing us were two square buildings, 

 with a row of long windows, and an overhanging roof, the 

 residence of Captain Eliott, the Superintendent of Coorg ; 

 and behind rose up the long edifice forming the old palace, 

 and the white steeple of a modern church. A range of 

 wooded hills, with hea\y clouds hanging over them, formed 

 the background. To the right, at a lower elevation were the 

 native town, and two mosque-like buildings, snowy white, 

 with domes, and minarets at the angles, rising up amongst a 

 grove of trees. These are the tombs of the former Rajahs. 

 The narrow gorge below the fort is planted with coffee and 

 plantains, W'hich almost hide the huts that nestle amongst 

 them. In the bottom of the ravine is the principal pagoda 

 of Mercara, built like a mosque, with the tops of the 

 minarets richly gilded. The entrance to the fort is by a 

 steep ascent, leading under a deep gateway in the outer line 



