METHODS OF BUDDING 



263 



but a larger enough percentage of successes follow the 

 two-cutting plan to make it fairly popular. 



In good soil and with a good root system, the buds, 

 depending on the species, will develop shoots 2 to 5 feet 

 tall, or even more by fall. Sprouts must be rubbed off 

 the stocks whenever they appear and the bud shoot en- 

 couraged to grow straight and forkless, and all the leaves 

 on the shoot should be allowed to remain. With 

 crooked and weak-growing varieties tying may be nec- 

 vssary. For convenience in doing this work stock stubs 

 .jire often left on orna- 

 nental trees, seldom on 

 ruit trees, because of its 

 expense, to act as stakes 

 tgainst which to tie the 

 bud sprouts (Fig. 205). 

 Except in mixed graft- 

 ing (330), shoots on the 

 stock must not be allow- 

 ed to grow or they will 

 rob the bud shoot of 

 food and develop even 

 stronger shoots. Toward 

 the end of the growing 

 season these stubs must 

 be carefully cut close to 



the Union of bud and The wood is kept cold till needed. The 



Stock method gives better results than the ordi- 



349. In "June bud- 

 ding," stocks one-fourth to one-third inch in diam- 

 eter are favored. Instead of stripping the lower 

 part of the stocks completely of leaves, as in north- 

 ern budding, a few leaves are left below the point of bud- 

 ding to serve as feeders. Because of the heat of the soil 

 surface, in hot, dry climates, it is customary to place the 

 buds an inch or two higher than in northern practice. 

 To avoid the sudden and violent check to growth which 



FIG. 206 COLD BOX METHOD 

 OF STORING CION WOOD 



