PROPAGATION 7 



Another method largely employed in California and other sub-tropi- 

 cal states, is to use cotton cloth as a covering for the propagating house 

 or frame. This excludes part of the light and prevents the wind from 

 drying them out. The cutting beds are usually made upon the ground,, 

 using sand as a material to hold moisture and sustain them until they 

 make roots. Large quantities of cuttings are successfully handled in this 

 'way along the Pacific Coast. 



Saucer System Those who wish to propagate a few plants and are 

 not favored with the facilities of the greenhouse, may use shallow boxes 

 or any dish that will hold a few inches of sand. A dozen or more cutting* 

 may be inserted at a time by adopting the "Saucer System" given by 

 Peter Henderson in his work, "Practical Floral Culture," which is as fol- 

 lows : "It is called the Saucer System because saucers or plates are used 

 to hold the sand in which the cuttings are placed. The sand is put in to 

 a depth of an inch or so and the cuttings are inserted in it close enough 

 to touch each other. The sand is then watered until it becomes the condi- 

 tion of mud, and placed on the windodw- sill fully exposed to the sun. But 

 one condition is essential to success, until the cuttings become rooted the 

 Sc f ind must be continually saturated and kept in the condition of mud ; if 

 once allowed to dry up the whole operation will be defeated.'' 



English Method The English method may also be of service to the 

 amateur and is as follows: Insert three or four cuttings around the 

 edge of a four-inch pot that has been previously filled with light soil, con- 

 sisting of loam, sand and leaf mould, equal parts. These are placed into 

 a close frame and given same attention as suggested for Imported Stock, 

 pg. 4. 



Divisions In localities where the plants remain out-of-doors over 

 winter without injury, they can be increased by removing the sprouts or 

 stools that have sprung up from the base of the old plant. As these stools 

 come into active growth, roots are formed near the surface of the soil, 

 mid may then be removed and replanted or potted as desired. Often such 

 pieces are difficult to pot owing to the long, crooked stems. These are 

 removed, leaving a few roots to establish the young plant. New varieties 

 are generally produced by seeds, which are fully treated in Chapter XII. 



Potting Cuttings should not remain in the bench after the roots are 

 half an inch long, as they are potted easier, making better plants in every 

 way than when allowed to remain until the roots are further developed. 



The soil should not be dry, but moist enough to remain intact when 

 squeezed in the hand, and, on the other hand, not be muddy. Cuttings 

 are usually potted in small pots, the two-inch size being ample. Put suf- 

 ficient soil in the bottom of the pot so that the base of the cutting will be 

 about % of an inch below the surface, hold cutting in center of pot with 

 one hand and fill in with the other. Firm the soil, with thumb or fingers, 

 enough to keep the cutting upright, and be sure to leave sufficient space for 

 water, which should be applied liberally without delay. 



Putting the cuttings in flats (shallow boxes), instead of potting, has 

 long been in vogue, and is a good course to pursue, insuring good stock 

 at planting time with less labor involved. See Fig. 3. 



