10 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



more firmly in the pots. A close, heavy loam is bad, but if it must be- 

 used, it should be only lightly firmed; sufficient sharp sand may be used: 

 to keep the water passing out freely. 



Watering All experts agree that the plants should never suffer for 

 want of water, and consider it one of the most important details in all 

 stages of development. On the other hand, it is very important that the- 

 drainage be ample, so that the water passes through freely, thus pre- 

 venting stagnation, a condition conducive to disease, which will finally re- 

 sult in failure. 



It sometimes occurs that the exact condition of plants in pots is not 

 fully indicated by the appearance of the soil. A very accurate course to 

 follow is to rap the pots with the knuckles or a stick ; those that are w r et 

 have a dull sound, those that are dry a hollow sound. A few days' trial 

 will teach the operator to detect the difference in sound in an instant. 



Staking During August many of the plants will have attained con- 

 siderable height, even though they have been stopped every few days. 

 Those which are inclined to make too dense growth should be provided 

 with a few stakes and the branches gradually tied out to the desired form, 

 thus making a foundation to build upon later. These stakes will need to 

 be removed later on, and replaced by larger ones, when it is determined 

 how tall the plants are likely to grow. 



Early in September it will be necessary to consider the final staking 

 and tying out. The main object in specimen plants is to develop as many 

 growing shoots as possible before the middle of August, arranging them 

 so as to keep the plants even and regular in form. How this is to be 

 done is somewhat a matter of taste, but it is easier to do it all at once, 

 as more shapely plants can be formed. If the plants are desired for ex- 

 hibition purposes and to be transported some distance to the exhibition 

 hall, the stake system is preferable to that of the wire frame, the advant- 

 age being that plants tied to stakes can be drawn together so there will be 

 no friction, and at the same time occupy much less space. 



The best course to follow in the matter. of staking and tying largely 

 depends upon the size and form to which they are to be trained. The 

 Japanese growers shape their plants into many artistic designs, such as 

 crosses, fans, boats, parasols, etc. When such forms are to be perfected, 

 it is necessary to make a temporary frame-work of wire or stakes to which 

 the shoots may be tied out into the form desired, and this should be pro- 

 vided before the plants attain any great size. The forms generally adopted 

 for exhibition groups are round and slightly elevated in the center, as 

 shown in Fig. 4. page 12, and are grown all sizes from three to six feet 

 in height and nearly as wide. 



The operation of staking is simply placing stakes into the soil, the 

 outer ones at such an angle as to bring the branches in the desired posi- 

 tion to give the plant the required diameter. Additional stakes are sup- 

 plemented to hold the inner branches in position. 



The best material for trying is silkaline, which does not slip; being 

 soft, does not injure the shoots, and as its color is green, is not so con- 

 spicuous as where white string is used. 



