SPECIMEN PLANTS 11 



Tying out should not be left too long; in fact, it should be done 

 every few days. There are always some overgrown, vigorous shoots which 

 are difficult to accommodate, but while supple they will bend easily. A 

 bad hole or open space can sometimes be filled by these strong growths, 

 bending them down and tying securely. When specimen plants are grown 

 for conservatory decoration, or where they can be practically transported 

 to the exhibition hall, the wire frames may be used. 



When wire frames are used, tie as. many shoots as possible to the 

 lower part of the frame, as the greatest danger is congestion at the top. 



Disbudding The operation of disbudding will need attention early 

 in September, the early varieties setting buds first and the later ones fol- 

 lowing, according to the natural flowering time. For early exhibitions, 

 say the 1st of November, buds should be prominent by September 15, and 

 showing color four weeks later. At least three weeks are required after 

 they show color until maturity. 



Generally all the specimen plants produce terminal buds ; each shoot 

 bearing a cluster at the extremity, which is disbudded so as to leave 

 only one bud to each, and this the center one. In this way the flowers are 

 uniform in size, and if the plant has been well trained and tied out, these 

 individual blooms will nearly touch each other. 



After setting buds, the plants will begin sending out suckers from the 

 roots in nil directions, which, if allowed to remain, rob the buds of the 

 nourishment which has been provided for their development. These 

 should Ite removed at once and this operation repeated as often as they 

 appear, as well as any lateral growths which may start from the shoots. 



Feeding The application of stimulants requires careful consideration 

 and should be entrusted only to persons of judgment and discretion. With 

 the roots so much confined in the pots, even more care is required than 

 where the bench system is employed in the production of cut blooms. 



The pots must be filled with roots and the drainage perfectly free 

 to begin with. If cow manure is used as a top dressing, would be best 

 to dry it first and afterwards break into small pieces. This acts as a 

 mulch and fertilizer at the same time. As a safe and lasting stimulant, 

 pulverized sheep manure is preferred, which should be applied in the form 

 of a top dressing, adding a little sandy loam to keep it open. Liquid 

 manure may also be used if the plant continues healthy, applying once a 

 week at first and twice or three times a week later. Sulphate of am- 

 monium and nitrate of soda a^e sometimes used with wonderful results, 

 but must be applied with discretion. 



From the time the buds are set, success depends very much upon the 

 judicious use of fertilizers, either in liquid form or a top dressing. Some 

 plants will take liquid manure in liberal amounts : others, if so treated, 

 are easily injured. Over-feeding shows itself in yellow, stunted foliage. 

 When this occurs, use clear water and let them get as dry as they can 

 with safety. 



The grower needs to be acquainted with the plants as with individuals : 

 it is a matter of experience and, when carefully done, may be continued 



