EXHIBITION BLOOMS 39' 



around the roots of the plants and give a two-inch top dressing of well- 

 rotted manure from the cow lot. The idea should be to cause the roots 

 to grow laterally rather than downward, hence a great depth in the 

 beds is unnecessary. 



Liquid fertilizers made about the strength of weak tea from hen, 

 sheep and cow manure is best, and will contain all the chemical ingredi- 

 ents that the plants will require. This liquid fertilizing should com- 

 mence about September 1st, and 10 days later the first setting of flower- 

 ing buds will appear. 



When buds show color stop all fertilizing and give soft water. A 

 covering of canvas laid on sloping rafters should be given the beds to 

 protect the opening blooms from rain or dust, in fact not a drop of water 

 should be allowed to come in contact with a bloom at any time, and; 

 great care should be used in spraying. 



Disbudding will have to be closely attended to, allowing but one (the 

 most promising) to each limb, and usually the terminal bud is chosen for 

 best results. The crown or early center bud is best for some varieties, 

 but experience will have to be the teacher. Watch for insects closely ; 

 caterpillars, aphis, mealy bugs and corythuca that huddle on the under 

 side of the leaves. Keep on the lookout for these enemies, and at the- 

 first indication apply tobacco tea or strong soapsuds to prevent their 

 getting a strong foothold. 



Do not expect blooms grown out-of-doors to be quite as nice as those 

 with greenhouse protection, where these elements can be more surely 

 controlled. The grower should never attempt exhibition blooms of any 

 character if he is not prepared to devote time each day to them, and 

 under no circumstances allow the slightest procrastination or neglect. 

 The plants in time will repay most handsomely. 



Australian Method The conditions in the southern states are similar 

 to those of Australia, admitting of the flowering of chrysanthemums 

 out-of-doors. Thinking that the methods employed there may be of service 

 to southern growers we give the following suggestions by G. Brunning 

 & Sons, Australia : It should be taken into consideration that their 

 spring is our fall; so that where the month is specified we should add six 

 months. This would make September, March, or the proper time to begin 

 propogation. And again, where it refers to the buds appearing in Febru- 

 ary, we should substitute August. 



"Stand the old plants of the previous season in some open, airy posi- 

 tion to break. From these suitable cuttings of about three inches in 

 length are taken in September (March). After removal of some of the 

 lower leaves the cuttings are inserted singly in two or three-inch pots 

 filled with light, open soil and plunged in sand in a close glass frame. 

 The only attention required until they are rooted being an occasional' 

 watering or sprinkling and ventilation for an hour or two in the morning. 



"When the plants are fairly established and hardened off, repot into 

 5-inch pots, using a good open soil and well-drained pots. The soii need 

 not be too rich as only a moderate growth is desirable at the present 



