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THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN. 



The moderate growers should be pruned 

 closely, not the others. Blanche Belgique, 

 Belle de Segur, Celestial, Felicite', Madame 

 Audot, Madame Legras, Maiden's Blush, 

 Mrs. Paul, and Lorna Doone are among 

 the best kinds. 



EVERGREEN ROSES (R. sempervirens). 

 These are Climbing Roses, with large 

 clusters of from ten to fifty blooms each, 

 and holding their dark green shining 

 foliage through a great part of winter ; 

 they are free growers and quite hardy. 

 In pruning, the head should be thinned 

 out, a few of the more pendent shoots 

 being left their whole length. 



GALLICA ROSES. This is an old 

 group, that used to be important, but is 

 no longer so because of the other kinds 

 that have been raised. The many kinds 

 may be distinguished by their stiff erect 

 growth ; and require close pruning whilst 

 the flowers are fragrant and varied in hue. 

 The striped varieties of this section (Rosa 

 Mundi, etc.) are often called York and 

 Lancaster. The following are the best 

 known : Boula de Nanteuil, Blanchefleur, 

 Cynthie, D'Aguesseau, Duchess of Buc- 

 cleuch, Kean, CEillet Parfait, Ohl, Perle 

 des Panachees, Rosa Mundi, Village 

 Maid. 



AYRSHIRE ROSE (Rosa Arvensis vars.). 

 These roses, of native origin, are of 

 rapid growth, often running 15 or 20 ft. in 

 one season, and are of use in covering 

 rough buildings, unsightly banks and 

 trees. They do not require rich soil, and 

 should be pruned very little, or not 

 at all. Bennett's Seedling, Queen of 

 Ayrshire, Queen of Belgians, Ruga, 

 Dundee Rambler, Splendens, and Vir- 

 ginia Rambler, are the best-known sorts. 



BOURSAULT ROSE (Rosa Alpina). 

 This is a distinct species, but its varieties 

 form a worthless group, which receives 

 its name from M. Boursault. Most of the 

 varieties are free from thorns and have 

 long reddish shoots. Amadis is most 

 grown. It is one of the groups of roses 

 not worth keeping up. 



ROSE HEDGES. If the soil be naturally 

 a good Rose soil, the work will be light. 

 In that case mark out the position of the 

 hedge 2 ft. wide, trench up that space 

 2 ft. deep, adding as the work proceeds a 

 quantity of well-rotted manure. Where 

 there is any doubt about the staple being 

 of the right sort, remove it, and supply its 

 place with a mixture of three parts loam 

 and one of manure. There are, however, 

 many gardens the soil of which, with the 

 addition of one barrowful of loam to every 

 yard length of hedge, and about half that 

 quantity of manure, will grow Roses Well. 



i Plants on their own roots are indispens- 

 able, and if from 2 to 3 ft. high so much 

 the better, as they will form a hedge the 

 sooner. The time of planting must 

 depend on the condition of the plants, but, 

 I if only small plants in pots are to be had 

 it should be in April or May. In any case 

 it should be done when the soil is 

 moderately dry, and some finely-sifted 

 mould should be placed round the roots, 

 i the ground being made moderately firm. 

 | Deep planting must be avoided. The 

 i crown should be about 2 in. under the 

 surface, as the soil will afford it some pro- 

 tection during severe weather. As soon 

 as the planting is done, give some support 

 to the branches ; a neat stake and a strong 

 ! tie preventing them from being blown 

 about by the wind. Place a layer of short 

 rotten manure over the roots. This should 

 i be 3 in. thick, and i ft. wide on each side. 

 During the first two years little pruning 

 j will be necessary, but the second spring 

 ! after planting, any strong shoots that 

 exceed 3 ft. in length should be cut back 

 to that point. In the ground place a few 

 neat sticks, to which tie some of the 

 lower branches to form the base of the 

 hedge and bring it into shape. After the 

 second year the growth will gain more 

 vigour and increase in length. Cut down 

 I the strongest shoots to 4 ft. the third year 

 | and from that time allow them to increase 

 slowly in height so as to give the lower 

 branches time to fill up the base. Some 

 supports will be necessary to keep the 

 growth in shape. The after-management 

 consists in giving the roots a good dressing 

 of rotten manure every winter. Rake 

 away the soil from over the roots, lay the 

 manure on them, and then replace the 

 soil. 



WILD AND SINGLE ROSES. 

 There are many beautiful single Roses, 

 and now that some interest has been 

 awakened in them, we may expect to see 

 them more freely planted. There are 

 vigorous climbers which, allowed to have 

 their own way and a branched tree to 

 support them, will climb to a great 

 height ; others, sturdy and bushy, are 

 I suitable for planting in bold groups and 

 | masses, and rare ones will merit special 

 ! care. They are free from the pests that 

 | infest the double Roses, and above all 

 things when single Roses are present 

 in the garden a roseless June will not 

 happen even in the worst of seasons. 

 When Dog Rose and Sweet Brier toss 

 from the hedges in early June our gardens 

 might and should show some of the Wild 

 Rose beauty, for the single Roses of many 

 lands are at our disposal. 



