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AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



I don't use them. Give me your ex- 

 cuse for a loose bottom-board. — Mrs. 

 jEX>nE Atckley. 



I don't use loose bottom-boards. If I 

 had hives with loose bottoms, I would 

 nail them on. — E. France. 



1. I don't fasten it. If I did, it would 

 not be loose. 2. I don't use the rim, 

 and don't need it. — A. B. Mason. 



Our hives are differently constructed. 

 I have seen Van Deusen hive-clamps 

 used for this purpose ; also hooks and 

 screws. — P. H. Elwood. 



Use hive-hooks marde for this purprse, 

 or, better still, have the bottom-board 

 nailed to the hive. I do not like to have 

 more loose pieces than is necessary. — 

 Mrs. J. N. Heater. 



1. Use the Van Deusen wire-clamp, 

 or a simple hook. 2. Leave out the 

 " rim ;" or if you must go to this use- 

 less trouble, tack it fast with nails. — 

 Emerson T. Abbott. 



1. I generally use screws, sometimes 

 pieces of tin, and ?i-inch wire nails. 2. 

 By using a bottom-board of my own in- 

 vention, being a shallow box 1,^2 inches 

 deep, with one end open. — C. C. Miller. 



1. I have usually hooked the bottom- 

 board to the hive by using two hooks on 

 each side. 2. A dozen ways can be de- 

 vised by which this can be done. Any 

 of which would be easy and simple. — J. 

 E. Pond. . 



1. With pieces of lath and shingle 

 nails. I have moved a good many bees, 

 and tried strings, wire, hooks, screws, 

 and other fixings, and found nails and 

 lath the best of all. 2. Same way. — S. 

 I. Freeborn. 



1. I don't fasten them. I lift the hive 

 by taking hold under the bottom-board. 

 They can be fastened, however, by the 

 Van Deusen clasp, and some people who 

 are very precise use them, or a similar 

 device. — Eugene Secor. 



1. I lift the hive by putting my hands 

 under the bottom-board. 2. I use no 

 rim, and take off the bottom-board also 

 in wintering — in the cellar. If I used a 

 rim, I could safely rely on attraction of 

 gravitation to keep everything firm. — R. 

 L. Taylor. 



I use a maleable-iron hook of my own 

 invention. In using a wooden rim un- 

 der a hive, I use a hook on it also, mak- 

 ing two hooks on each side. Hooks and 

 screws must be placed in exactly the 

 same position, so they will all be inter- 

 changeable. — C. H. Dibbern. 



I use a reversible bottom-board, and 

 get the 2-inch space. I have no trouble 

 with sliding about, if done say 8 to 10 

 days before you want to remove to the 

 cellar. The bees do the fastening. If I 

 were to remove in a wagon, I would use 

 the small iron clamps made by Dr. 

 Tinker. — H. D. Cutting. 



I do not fasten it at all. I had a hive 

 to "blow over" last winter, and the bee- 

 glue kept it intact, although it was a 

 two-story hive. This winter a hive in 

 my apiary toppled over in time of the 

 January thaw ; it parted from the bot- 

 tom-board, but the upper story kept its 

 place. Bee-glue does the work. — G. W. 

 Demaree. 



We use a light, maleable Van Deusen 

 clasp on single hives. On winter hives 

 they are not necessary, nor is the two- 

 inch rim spoken of. I have used a great 

 many of the 2-inch rims in wintering, 

 but consider them a damage in winter- 

 ing. They should be cast aside with the 

 other useless contrivances of the apiary. 

 — G. L. Tinker. 



1. I do not so fasten it. Pick up the 

 hive with the hands under the bottom- 

 board, or use the Van Deusen clamps. 

 2. I leave the bottom-boards on the 

 summer stands in winter, and pile the 

 hives on top of each other, using pieces 

 of 2-inch stuff between the bottom of 

 the upper hive and the top of the one 

 below. Extra Van Deusen clamps will 

 hold all together, if you so desire. — G. 



M. DOOLITTLE. 



1. I do not -want it fastened except 

 when bees are to be hauled. Then I 

 fasten the top and bottom together by 

 means of wire loops hooked over nail- 

 heads projecting slightly from the cover 

 and bottom-board. These loops are 

 then tightened by the use of "spread- 

 ers " — small sticks with notched ends. 

 2. I would not use a rim with only three 

 sides. There should be no difficulty, 

 though, in fastening the parts together, 

 if it was desired. Under ordinary cir- 

 cumstances, the weight of the hive 

 should be sufficient. — James A. Green. 



Capons and Caponizing:, by 



Edward Warren Sawyer, M. D., Fanny 

 Field, and others. It shows in clear 

 language and illustrations all about 

 caponizing fowls ; and thus how to 

 make the most money in poultry-raising. 

 Every poultry-keeper should have it. 

 Price, postpaid, 30 cents ; or clubbed 

 with Bee Journal one year, for $1.10. 



