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Ttit} AiVlJ^KHJAiN 31^h JUUKJNAL. 



Mrs. Tupper — Queen raising in the 

 most important of all. Eacli one must un- 

 derstand it well, the way I take is one 

 that any one can follow. Take the best 

 queen you have, a good hive and queen, 

 put her in a good colony in the fall for 

 spring operations, stimulate by feeding 

 .early, have them strong in the full and 

 spring both, also feed in the fall ; no dif- 

 ference where, so it seems to come from 

 the outside of the hi-s^e. Go to the colony 

 (early in the spring,) take out the queen, 

 put her in another hive, disturb them 

 as little as possible, put in frames in an- 

 other hive with enough bees to keep them 

 warm, get four frames in another hive, 

 move the hive and put it in the place of 

 the old hive, and if too many leave the 

 old hive change them and continue; in 

 this way you can get ten nuclie, and as 

 soon as it is warm you will have queens. 

 As soon as one comes out, put in another 

 <;ell and continue this rotation, cage or 

 change queens between ten and two 

 o'clock and you can have from ten to six- 

 teen nuclei all the time without mucli 

 care. Mark the entrance for queens be- 

 fore they tly. 



Mr. Benedict — Those large hives, I 

 would say, which have drones, that they 

 fly early in the day, stop in the drones 

 early, and put in a teaspoonful of honey 

 in the big hive to feed and excite the bees 

 and drones. Open the hive about five 

 o'clock and liberate the drones and young 

 queens and they will come right out and 

 fly finely after all the rest of the drones are 

 done flying. 



Mr. Chapman — I keep my hives large 

 and strong, and in the spring of the year 

 take out a few drone combs and put them 

 in two hives that have no other comb in 

 their hives and kill all the drones except 

 those in the two hives. I killed all my 

 drones in this way last spring. Have 

 practiced this for a long time, and my 

 best success has been with large hives to 

 keep drones. 



Mr. J. S. Hill — I have introduced queens 

 and have been successful ; loose one once 

 in a while. I do not like the method of 

 wintering bees, they do not clean off or 

 the queens eitlier. When you want to 

 change queens catch tlie old one, put her 

 in a cage, raise the bottom or ojjcn the 

 hive, put the old queen in the cage, on the 

 bottom of the hive, and in two days if 

 they are quiet, change the old one for a 

 new one, and put her in the same place, 

 stop the cage with bits of comb, get- 

 ting your comb from uncapping hone3\ 

 In two days after, examine to see if she 

 has been liberated, if they have not let 

 her go, then uncage her. 



Mr. Benedict — I would have my queen 

 to breed from, in a good strong hive in 



the spring and as soon as the weather is 

 warm enough, change her to another good 

 hive and on the 9th day I would cut out 

 the queen cells, get a nucleus hive and 

 put in it frames of honey and brood cap- 

 ped, with a few bees, next day put the nu- 

 cleus in the place of the old one, have 

 plenty of drones in the old hive. 



Mr. Anderson — When I raise queens I 

 do the same way, but when I put my cells 

 in (as soon as they are capped) I put them , 

 in a wire cage and leave them an exit. 



Mr. R B. Price— I first catch old 

 queen and kill her and put her in the cage 

 with the new queen and succeed well, 

 keep them in twenty-four hours. As soon 

 as the bees find their queen dead they 

 will readily accept the new one. 



Mr. Hill — I generally have bees two 

 weeks before I distrub them after intro- 

 ducing a queen. 



Mr. Zimmerman — I have lost queens by 

 being killed after they had been liberated 

 two days. To make doubly sure I would 

 take out the bees and put the queen in, 

 and then let the bees go in slowly and 

 they think it a strange place. 



Mr. Sweitzer — I cannot succeed in that 

 way. 



3Ir. Benedict — Be sure and conquer the 

 bees first, by smoking them well, then 

 kill old queen, put the new one in a cage 

 with comb stopcr. In forty-eight hours 

 see if she has been liberated and if not 

 let her be in the cage one week, then pull 

 out the cork and let her go. 



Dr. B. W. Rush — I have tried the plan 

 with a comb stopper and have succeeded 

 well. 



BEE FORAGE. 



Can bee keeping as a business be suc- 

 cessfully practised in a locality producing 

 a large amount of clover, but no other 

 source except locust and fruit bloom iu 

 the spring ? 



Mr. Chapman — I will give an idea how 

 to get honey from clover. I have been ft 

 farmer. Take a field in a good state of 

 cultivation, sow it in clover, and when it 

 has fairly covered the ground it will draw 

 a moisture from the surrounding land. I 

 do not plow it, but add more to it; this 

 field will deposit much more evaporation 

 than the surrounding, or poorly cultivated 

 fields. 



Mr. Hoagland — I don't think I am pre- 

 pared to express myself, we cultivate 

 from 20 to GO acres of buckwheat of the 

 black variety. The gray superceeded the 

 black, and then in three years I got the 

 silver quill. Two years ago it produced 

 more than it has since. Sometimes clover 

 is' the best for honey and sometimes bass- 

 wood, but now clover is the honey re- 

 source as basswoon has failed by being 

 destroyed. I wish to say tlial buckwheat 



