THE EXPEDITION AT BTJXAR. 39 



The increasing speed and swing of the train, though not 

 always easy, was inexpressibly soothing to nerves somewhat 

 tried by the unwonted heat and bustle of an anxious day and 

 impatient of all hindrance; and it was delightful to watch the 

 novel, weird-looking country, dimly outlined in the tropic star- 

 light, sweeping past us as the night mail settled to its work. 

 But ere midnight there was a check ; some block was on the 

 line, and we pulled up somewhere in the jungle without assign- 

 able cause or means of obtaining explanation save in a heathen 

 tongue. The annoyance of an irksome delay was however 

 presently relieved by the arrival of another train, which drew 

 up alongside of us. There were English tongues here, no, 

 Irish : five hundred of them ; half a regiment of Inniskillings, 

 mainly raw troops, were on their way to the front ; and a dozen 

 red-coated lads craned their heads out of the train, delighted at 

 the opportunity of a chat and the exchange of a little good- 

 natured banter. They told us tales of their homes away in 

 Cork, of incidents of their voyage, and of their prospects of 

 rough and active service ; and this last we learned to appreciate 

 a little later when we came up with another train meeting us 

 this time, and bringing down from the frontier a sorry band of 

 old campaigners, sick and wounded and worn with the severity 

 of their late service. 



The only other incidents that broke the monotony of the long 

 ride were the regular stoppages for medical inspection. A solemn 

 farce as far as we were concerned, at first somewhat amusing by 

 its absurdity, but growing terribly tedious by its repetition. 

 During one night halt there was a hunt up and down the train 

 for the addressee of an official telegram, which was presently 

 handed to myself as being the individual concerned ; and then I 

 learned how my colleague Mr. Maunder, the indefatigable senior 

 secretary of the eclipse expeditions, had even in the thick of all 

 his own anxious work found time somehow to make interest with 

 the authorities on our behalf, and to aid materially in setting 

 matters in train for our benefit. 



< Kving to the many delays we missed our train at Moghul 

 S-rai, and so found ourselves at that comfortless junction at 

 5 a.m. of the third day, much jaded with so long a spell of 

 travel, and sorely in need of warmth and breakfast. It was then, 

 as on so many like occasions, that the ladies of our party showed 

 their true helpfulness and ready resource. They now took the 

 lead. Down in the depths of our travelling kit were a spirit 

 kettle, a teapot, bovril, biscuits and such-like fare. These we 

 unearthed, and being in strong force, next advanced upon an 

 empty ladies' waiting-room and promptly carried the position. 

 But where was the pump? The station-master soon settled 

 this difficulty. Kellner's refreshment rooms would not be open 

 for hours, but he got us access to the filter, and we were soon 



