ON DAHLIAS 159 



A still simpler plan is to replant all the stools that 

 were lifted in autumn and remained sound through the 

 winter in the garden towards the end of April. If the 

 soil is good they will make strong clumps, but they are 

 not likely to yield such fine flowers as fresh plants raised 

 from cuttings. 



Soil and Manure. Moisture is the first essential for 

 growing Dahlias, and it is easier to provide it by break- 

 ing up the soil deeply and hoeing regularly, than by 

 taking a water-pot to the plants day after day. If the 

 soil is loosened two spades deep in winter or spring, 

 and the subsoil disintegrated thoroughly, the rooting 

 area will retain moisture far better than if there is a 

 hard pan a few inches from the surface ; moreover, the 

 roots can spread farther. The regular hoeing will check 

 the escape of moisture and keep weeds in subjection. 



The process of soil-deepening affords a golden 

 opportunity for manuring, as the dung can be put in 

 the right place that is, between the top and bottom 

 layers (" spits") of soil. From two to three barrow- 

 loads of decayed yard manure may be used to each 

 square rod of ground. 



If the subsoil is limestone, the only way of making 

 the soil suitable for Dahlias is to break up the chalk. 

 This is not always so serious a task as might be 

 supposed. In some cases no pick is required, but the 

 chalk can be broken up with a fork more easily than 

 stiff soil can. 



It is desirable to avoid a wind-swept site for the 

 Dahlia bed, because the plants get dashed about and 

 badly injured in stormy weather, in spite of care in 

 staking them. Even if the plants are not blown over, 

 shoots carrying good flowers are sometimes broken off. 

 Individual plants may be set in herbaceous borders if 



