194 POPULAR GARDEN FLOWERS 



well drained and friable, for the Gladiolus is not really 

 exacting, although it dislikes stodgy, cold land. Directly 

 the buds form, stakes should be put to the plants and the 

 spikes tied, or the first storm will break them, especially 

 if the site be exposed ; a sheltered though sunny position 

 should be found if possible. 



In cold districts it may be found advisable to start 

 Gladiolus corms in pots or boxes in spring, as advised 

 under tuberous Begonias, and to plant them out, well 

 rooted, towards the end of May. 



Wintering. The corms should be lifted in autumn, 

 except when the Childsii and Lemoinei varieties are 

 being grown in a light, warm soil ; and it is not wise to 

 wait until the leaves have died away, for that may not be 

 until the New Year, but proceed as soon as the foliage 

 loses its freshness. The plants may be laid in a shed for 

 a few days to dry, and then deprived of stems and roots, 

 leaving only the corms. It will be found that, in many 

 cases, the old corm has begun to decay, and that a new 

 one is fixed on the top of it ; they should be broken 

 apart forcibly, and only the new corms, with any young 

 ones, preserved. These can be stored in dry sand in 

 shallow, uncovered boxes till spring. The large ones 

 will flower again the same year as they are planted, the 

 small offsets not till the following year. 



From Seed. To raise Gladioli from seed, sow in pans 

 or boxes in spring, put in a warm frame or greenhouse 

 until germination has taken place, harden the plants in 

 an unheated frame, and stand the pans outside in May. 

 It is hardly worth while to plant them out until the 

 following year, as they will not grow strongly. They 

 can be dried off in autumn like large corms and 

 planted the following spring, to flower in that or the 

 following year. 



