MONT BLANC AND THE MEE DE GLACE. 33 



* * "Above us are the Alps, 

 The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls 



Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps 

 Arid throned eternity in icy halls 

 Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls 



The avalanche the thunderbolt of snow! 

 All that expands the spirit, yet appals, 



Gather around these summits, as to show 

 How earth may pierce to heaven, yet leave vain man below." 

 GMlde Harold, III, Ixii. 



Following the prevailing custom, our first excursion 

 shall be to the Montanvert (6,302 feet). This is a buttress 

 of the Aiguille de Charmoz (11,293 feet), and is visited 

 exclusively to obtain a view of the Mer de Glace. For 

 this ascent a guide is unnecessary, and should we need one 

 for the continuance of the trip, we may take the risk 

 of engaging him upon the mountain. Our vigor is so 

 exuberant in the youth of our experience, that we shall 

 scorn equally mules and guides. 



The well constructed bridle-path leads in a perpetual 

 zigzag up the mountain. Passing first, the debris of a 

 series of avalanches, which have mown long avenues 

 through a forest of firs, we pause for refreshment at the 

 Fontaine de Caillet. Here we obtain ice-cold water 

 which the guides around declare to be unsafe for a bev- 

 erage, having less regard, we suspect, for our health 

 than for the sale of the bottled beverages within the 

 cabin. At any rate, we conclude again to take the risks. 

 Here is a rude chalet from which the traveler may rein- 

 force his energies on red raspberries, vin ordinaire or 

 cognac, according to his disposition. Here, also, is kept 

 a living chamois, which is shown to visitors for a trifling 

 consideration. 

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