22 CKUISE OF THE STEAMER COKWIN. 



NAVIGATION, WEATBER, AND CUBBENTS. 



In my previous experience in the Arctic I have never seen a season like the past. From the 

 time of first reaching the ice up to leaving the Arctic dense fog has been almost constant. Cur- 

 rents that have hitherto been considered permanent in direction, if not in force, have become 

 erratic, and others have entirely failed. The ice fell hack before the sun's atlvance slowly and 

 compactly. For three weeks after we reached the Dionrede Islands it refused entrance to Koizebue 

 Sound, and three weeks later still it was hanging with discouraging tenacity around Point Hope. 

 It was unsafe to anchor with any but a short scope, moving steam had to be kejit, and constant 

 vigilance exercised to i)rcveut being dragged ashore by fields of ice moving in the rapid and 

 changing currents. For weeks at a time it was impossible to take observations, dead reckoning 

 was almost worthless, owing to the continual changes in force and direction of the currents, and 

 the safety of the ship depended entirely on the constant use of the lead. Fortunaiely for those 

 who aie obliged to sail this frozen ocean, the depth of water is not so great but what bottom can 

 always bo obtained, and the proximity of land is indicated by regular shoaling with but few 

 exceptions. Yet with this aid and the best charts that we have, several years' experience is nec- 

 essary to enable the navigator to judge with any degree of precision the position of his ship. Any 

 one at all familiar with coasting knows how diflficult it is to recognize land in a fog where marks 

 are well defined — high blnfifs often appearing like low beaches and small rocks looming to gigantic 

 size, while the general contour of the small portion of shore visible may be taken for almost any 

 land that one expects to make. How much more difficult must it be where the formation of the 

 shore for miles ditters but little, as is the ease in the Arctic. 



Among the best landmarks that we have in these northern waters are the bird rookeries. 

 There is one at King's Island, one at the Diomedes, one at Cape Seppings, one at Cape Thompson, 

 and one at Cape Lisburne. The distance between these rookeries enables one to form a verj 

 accurate idea of the one he is approaching, while the cries of birds congregated at them admirably 

 answers the purpose of a fog-signal. With one or two exceptions these are the only aids to navi- 

 gation in this foggy, unsurveyed, and dangerous sea. 



In the shallow waters of this ocean the effect of the wind on the currents is, perhaps, more 

 mark«!d than in any other portion of the globe. A moderate wind of but few hours' duration will 

 produce a current in the direction in which it blows and change the set and velocity of all currents 

 within Its range. The quarter from which a coming wind will blow can usually be foretold 

 several hours by watching the drift of the ice in the vicinity of the ship. It is unsafe to lay down 

 any rules or assert that any current will be found to be setting in a specific direction. The ship- 

 master must exercise constant vigilance, pass sleepless nights, note and intelligently interpret the 

 smallest changes in wind, weather, and sea in order to insure with any degree of certainty the 

 safety of his vessel. 



It is work like this, together with exposure to the severity ol the climate, that soon ages a 

 man and breaks down his constitution. In the whaling service the wear and tear ui)on the systems 

 of officers coming to these waters is recognized and compensated, masters of vessels frequently 

 receiving seven to eight thousand dollars per year and their mates in proportion, the amount, 

 however, depending on the number of whales caught. It is the prospect of receiving such large 

 pay that induces men to run the risks and endure the hardships of Arctic voyaging. 



Inside the Arctic circle snow has fallen all the past season, and it may almost be said that there 

 has been no summer. As late as August 27 ice was within a few miles of Cape Sabine and at 

 the Sea-Horse Ishmds it was heavy and dangerous. 



The pack at this time was still to the southward of Point Barrow, and there were few indica- 

 tions that vessels would be able to go to the eastward of that place this season. During the 

 latter part of our stay the weather was exceptionally severe. About the Fox Islands heavy 

 storms were frequent and rain almost incessant. Advices received in San Francisco since my 

 arrival confirmed my opinion as to the vessel's being able to weather Point Barrow this year. 



As only experience in these waters can qualify an officer for taking care of a vessel in them, 

 I would resjjectfully suggest to the Department that there should always be on this vessel one 

 officer who has served during two cruises and one, one cruise. 



