PRUNING SHADE TREES 141 



The yearly pruning calls for the removal of all crossing 

 branches and all branches not so located as to aid in the 

 formation of a well-shaped crown. If the tree has a 

 tendency to form too dense a top, some of the inner 

 branches should be removed. As a guide to this removal 

 it must be borne in mind that too much shade is as bad 

 as not enough. The top should not be allowed to grow 

 to a density that will shut off light from nearby houses, 

 nor prevent some sunshine from reaching the ground 

 underneath the tree, nor should it interfere with the free 

 circulation of air. It is important that this pruning be 

 done early in the life of the tree, so that it may be accom- 

 plished with a knife. To wait until later, when a saw 

 must be used, involves larger wounds and slower process 

 of healing. 



The total of such pruning on a normal healthy tree 

 will be very slight, not averaging more than a cut or two 

 per tree per year, most trees going for several years 

 without needing a cut, but nevertheless they should have 

 an annual inspection with sharp pruning tools in hand. 

 Where two branches form a sharp fork, that is, if they 

 almost parallel each other, one of them should be removed. 

 If both are allowed to grow there will be danger of split- 

 ting. No two branches or twigs should touch each 

 other. Where there is such contact one should be cut off. 

 If there is a tendency toward the formation of more than 

 one main stem, or trunk, the pruning should remove or 

 shorten all but the central stem in order to concentrate 

 the growth in this main leader. If the upper part of the 

 stem tends to bend downward, a short length of bamboo 

 or small pole of other light, strong material, tied to the 

 stem, will hold it in upright position. All shoots which 

 develop along the trunk and the lower portions of the 

 branches should be removed. 



