1889.] PUBLIC DOCUMENT — No. 4. 91 



kimono. It is cut only into suitable lengths. All the long 

 seams, therefore, are straight and selvaged, and are loosely 

 sewn. When at long intervals, if at all, it is to be cleansed, 

 the seams are ripped, and the plain breadths of cloth are 

 washed and stretched by simple adhesion upon a smooth 

 board, which they place in the sunshine, whereby the drying 

 and ironing are completed in one operation. 



Around the waist the kimono is bound by the ohi or girdle, 

 the second in importance of the various articles of dress. 

 It is in the form of the ohi, and the elaborate dressing of the 

 hair, that the differences between the ordinary costumes of 

 the two sexes chiefly consist. It is generally made of heavy 

 brocaded silk, about four inches wide for men, and twelve 

 to fifteen inches for women. It is wound three times around 

 the waist, and as much skill and taste is displayed in tying 

 and adjusting the knot behind as our belles exhibit in dress- 

 ing the hair. It is said that gallants and connoisseurs can 

 distinguish between Tokio and Kioto ladies by the difference 

 in their manner of wearing the obi. 



I was further informed that the ohi serves a purpose un- 

 like that of any garment worn by ladies of any other land. 

 Widows who have determined never to marry again publish 

 their resolution by wearing the knot in front. Doubtless 

 there were young widows in Japan during my stay there, 

 but I never saw this evidence of self-abnegation. However, 

 it is the privilege of ladies to change their minds, most 

 fortunately, perhaps for some of us, and it is said that even 

 there the knot has an irresistible tendency to backslide. 



In full dress an additional outside garment shorter than 

 the kimono y but otherwise similar, is worn by both sexes, 

 but more frequently by men, who wear also the hakama, or 

 loose trousers of similar material. This garment is made 

 with wide vertical plaits, so full that upon a casual look you 

 would take it to be a kilted skirt. It is in truth a " divided 

 skirt." The prevailing colors for both sexes are sombre 

 shades and mixtures of brown, blue and gray, relieved for 

 ladies by the bright blues and embroidered decorations of 

 the ohi, and by glimpses of an under tunic of delicately 

 tinted crepe at the neck, and even at the knees, as the wind 

 roguishly thrusts the kimono aside. 



