BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 141 



naturally produced the first season, we at once conclude 

 that the buds are well disposed to break, and the cutting 

 back may be comjjaratively light. Where no side 

 branches are produced, we must be governed by the 

 appearance of the buds on the lower part of the tree, 

 where it is desired to produce the lower branches ; if they 

 be small and flat, it will take close cutting to arouse them, 

 but if plump and j)rominent, less vigorous measures will 

 be necessary. In the case of short, stout, and branched 

 yearlings, a few of the best placed, lowest, and strongest 

 branches are reserved, whilst the others are entirely re- 

 moved. We then shorten the reserved branches accord- 

 ing to their position, leaving the lowest the longest. The 

 leading shoot is shortened, so that all the buds left will be 

 sure to push and form shoots, AYhen these have attained 

 the length of two or three inches, the strongest and best 

 placed are selected for permanent branches, and the others 

 are pinched off. 



Yearlings that have no side branches, figure 88, we 

 generally cut back one half as to B^ and in many cases 

 two thirds to 6', in order to obtain strong branches near 

 the ground. Every bud below the one we cut to, should 

 push, and when shoots of two inches or so are made, we 

 select two, three, or such number as may be wanted, of 

 the strongest and best situated to be reserved, and pinch 

 the others. It very generally happens that two or three 

 buds next below the one we cut to, push with such vigor 

 as to injure both the leading shoot above and the side 

 shoots below them. They must be watched and pinched 

 as soon as this disposition becomes obvious. Yearling 

 trees managed in this way will present in the fall the 

 appearance of fig, 90. 



Purchasers are very apt to favor tall trees, even at the 

 expense of their forms ; and nurserymen, even those who 

 know better, with a view to suiting the tastes of their cus- 



