232 PRUNING. 



properly pruned, do not assume such wide-spreading 

 forms as they do naturally. 



The main branches and secondary branches should be 

 at equal distances throughout, and far enough apart to 

 give the bearing wood on their sides the full benefit of 

 the sun and air. 



An equality of vigor should also be preserved amongst 

 them by summer pinching. It is not uncommon to see a 

 very vigorous shoot start up in a peach tree, and appro- 

 priate so much of the sap as to injure a whole branch ; 

 these should be checked the moment their character is 

 observed, unless they may be wanted to fill a vacancy. 

 Every part of the branches should be furnished with 

 bearing shoots, and these should, every spring, be short- 

 ened in one half or more, to produce others at their base, 

 whilst those that have borne are cut out. 



Some people imagine that when they have taken a pair 

 of hedge shears, or some such instrument, and shorn ofi? 

 the ends of the shoots on the outside of the tree indis- 

 criminately, they are " shortening in," and so they are, 

 as they would a hedge ! Some of the shoots are cut 

 away entirely, fruit buds and all, whilst others remain 

 untouched, and the tree becomes like a brush on the out- 

 side and naked Y»'ithin. This is almost as bad as the let- 

 alone system. Every shoot should be cut separately. 

 The most expeditious instrument for doing this, is a pair 

 01 light hand-pruning shears, such as the French secateur 

 (see instruments). A person accustomed to its use can 

 prune every shoot on a full-grown tree in an almost in- 

 credibly short space of time, as compared with that re- 

 quired with the knife. Extensive orchardists may be 

 deterred from such a labor, looking to the cost ; but if 

 they will engage quick, active, intelligent persons to do 

 the work, and estimate the increased value of the fruit, 



