CHAPTER I 



BARREN ISLAND AND THE ARCHIPELAGO 



Shipboard Monotony— Edible Sharks— Calm Nights— Squalls— Barren Island 

 — Appearance — Anchorage — Landing - place — Hot Spring — Goats — The 

 Eruptive Cone — Lava— Paths— Interior of the Crater — Volcanic Activity — 

 Fauna— Fish— The Archipelago— Kwang-tung Strait— Path-making— The 

 Jungle— Birds— Coral Reefs— Parrots— Two New Rats— Inhabitants. 



We were six days out from land before Barren Island hove 

 in sight. Since New Year's Day,* when we got up anchor 

 amongst the islands of the Mergui Archipelago, the schooner 

 had been carried by the lightest of breezes towards the Andamans. 

 The days slipped by, each one as monotonous as its predecessor ; 

 there was no change in the wind, save when it fell calm for a 

 space, and the sun was so hot that we gladly sought shelter 

 in the cabin, where occupation might be found with a book. 

 Once we harpooned a porpoise, but he broke away from the 

 iron, and now and again, on a line trailing astern, we caught 

 a small shark, immediately claimed by the cook, to appear later 

 on the table ; for although the name seems instinctively to 

 prejudice one against them, all sharks are edible, and the 

 smaller species, which can scarcely include human material 

 in their dietary scale, are by no means to be despised when 

 fresh provisions are unobtainable, in spite of being often some- 

 what dry and flavourless. 



But the nights were ample compensation for any possible 

 discomfort by day. Around was the calm flat sea, and over- 

 head a pale blue sky, across which swung the tropic moon, 



* 1901. 



