ANXOYAXCES. THE ST. JOHiS-'S.' 335 



One occurred at Port Koyal, where our steamer was tied up 

 all night to the wharf close to a freight house in which a thou- 

 sand bags of Peruvian guano were stored, the intolerable stench 

 of which invaded our ship, entered the saloons, took possession 

 of every stateroom and remained with us all night. For pun- 

 gency and power it certainly surpassed the fifty-nine distinct and 

 independent bad smells that formerly regaled the traveler at one 

 and the same instant of time in the streets of Cologne. We 

 carried away from the Palmetto State only a vivid memory of 

 a horrible odor that will last us a life time. 



The other was a plague of insects at Fernandina, where our 

 ship was taken captive by great swarms of little gnats, Avho were 

 so glad to see us that it really seemed as if they were determined 

 to literally eat us up. Some hid away in sheltered nooks out of 

 the wind when we left, and seized every opportunity to renew 

 their acquaintance with the northern strangers. 



Our steamer took the outside route from Fernandina, and for 

 some time before we reached the mouth of the St. John's our at- 

 tention was called to the fact that the water of the river is carried 

 to the north in a well defined stream, strongly distinguished by 

 its color from that of the sea with which it refuses to assimilate. 

 Fed by vast wooded swamps, great lakes and unnumbered 

 tributary streams, the noble St. John's, after rolling in solemn 

 majesty through low but jncturesqae banks for hundreds of 

 miles, becomes at last a river of the ocean, scooping out for itself, 

 like the Gulf Stream, a channel in the heavier waters of the sea. 



The great rivers of the south are constantly and persistently 

 endeavoring to barricade their mouths, as if principled against 

 intercourse with the outside workl; Channels for commerce are 

 no sooner made and buoyed through the great bars and banks 

 than they are closed again. The bold navigator is perplexed and 

 confounded by changes which are constantly taking place, and 

 the soundings of one day are no sure guide for the next. 



