We arrive at Monte Video. 23 



course of the journey, this individual somewhat surprised me by- 

 diving his hand into a back coat pocket, and producing therefrom 

 a formidable-looking silver-sheathed dagger, which, however, to 

 my relief, he quietly laid down beside him on the seat, perhaps 

 that he might the more conveniently stretch himself out ; possibly 

 because he thought me a suspicious companion, and wished to 

 show in time that he was not unprepared in case of an attack. 



About Colon the country was open enough, presenting to the eye 

 a great bare tract of weedy-looking land varied by gently undulat- 

 ing hills, and studded with oxen innumerable; the farm-houses, 

 low structures disposed about half a mile apart, hardly breaking 

 the monotony of the landscape. Here and there a gaily capari- 

 soned Gaucho cantered about, apparently without any fixed object, 

 except to enjoy his liberty, and gave a picturesque character to 

 the scene. These Gauchos are really fine-looking fellows, well 

 mounted, and most excellent horsemen. They have about them 

 a certain air of well-fed contentment, which, in spite of their known 

 ferocity, almost elicits admiration. It is a popular error to apply 

 the term " Gaucho " indiscriminately to all the horse-riding com- 

 munity of the lower classes, for the term is properly only appli- 

 cable to those homeless wandering horse-riders whose sole worldly 

 possession consists of a horse and its trappings, who roam about 

 from place to place, picking up whatever they can appropriate by 

 fair means or foul, and who, consequently, do not enjoy a very high 

 reputation among the settled inhabitants. The word "Gaucho" is 

 looked upon as a term of reproach, and an honest, self-respecting 

 peasant so addressed would reply, "No, Senor, no soy Gaucho, soy 

 Paysano." By a clever stroke of policy the present dictator of 

 Uruguay, Senor Letore, has almost succeeded in putting a stop 

 to the infamous practice of "cattle lifting," formerly so common 

 among the " Gauchos." Their equipment usually includes a long 

 strip of hide, ostensibly carried as a tether for the horse, but 

 frequently turned to account as a lasso. A law has now been 

 enacted, and is rigidly enforced, restricting the length of this rope 



