146 Cruise of the "Alert." 



with their conquerors, it was agreed that the Tahitians should be 

 allowed to retain their own form of government, but under a 

 French Protectorate, and that freedom should be given to all 

 persons to practise or preach whatever religion they pleased. 



The Protectorate continued in force until July 1880, when, at 

 the request of King Pomare V. and the native chiefs, the island 

 and its dependencies were definitely ceded to France, so that they 

 now form an integral part of the French Republic. 



Our visit to Tahiti took place a few weeks after the French 

 annexation. At daybreak on the 6th August, 1880, we sighted 

 the south-eastern extremity of the island, and on closing the land 

 skirted along its north-east coast, having thus on our port hand a 

 magnificent panoramic view of this lovely island. As we passed 

 abreast of some of the deeper valleys, we got glimpses of the famous 

 Diadem Peak, which rises to an altitude of 7,000 feet. Its summit 

 is jagged, so as to present a very distinct resemblance to a royal 

 crown, and hence the name "crown" or "diadem ' so aptly assigned. 

 I was much struck by the resemblance which the scenery here 

 presented to that of Madeira. The conformation of the volcanic 

 peaks and ridges is very similar, but the vegetable covering is of 

 a sap green tint, whereas that of Madeira, seen from a similar 

 distance, appears of a bronze hue. At the distance from the land 

 which the barrier reef obliged us to maintain, the belt of cocoa- 

 nut trees which covers the shore platform was only visible through 

 the telescope. 



In the harbour of Papiete, where we anchored, were the French 

 flagship Victorieuse, an ironclad, and a wooden sloop the Dayot. 

 Here we had abundant evidence of the extreme care taken by the 

 French Government to render the harbour and its surroundings as 

 perfect in every respect as a lavish expenditure of money could 

 effect. A solidly-built seawall, alongside of which merchant 

 vessels were landing and shipping cargoes, fronted the settlement; 

 a neatly-kept alameda, shaded by the luxuriant foliage of large 

 Hibiscus trees, covered what was formerly the coral foreshore ; 



