122 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Borecoles are cooked in various ways, or used in salads, as in 

 America, or fermented so as to form what is termed Sauer-kraut. 

 The heads of the Cauliflowers and Broccolis, the stems of the Kohl- 

 Rabi, the roots of the Turnip-rooted and the Swedish Turnip, and 

 the small heads which grow along the stems of the Brussels Sprouts 

 are most usually eaten boiled, although they are also well treated 

 in other ways by foreign cooks. The very commonness and cheap- 

 ness of Cabbages leads to the ignoring of their existence on the 

 part of many superior persons. It is a great mistake, as they are 

 by far the most precious vegetables we have, eaten young, in the 

 right season, and well cooked. Though forms of the same wild 

 plant, the variety of flavours is remarkable. It is mot more remark- 

 able, however, than the way the common cook usually spoils this 

 vegetable. In the hotels and restaurants it is usually an un- 

 appetising mess, heavily charged with soda. The best cookery of 

 Cabbages may frequently be observed among cottagers and ser- 

 vants brought up in country cottages. One result of the neglect of 

 Cabbage on the part of the affluent is that they miss some of the 

 most delicate and wholesome vegetables we have, in various little- 

 known forms of this family, which will be described farther on in 

 this book. This vegetable in its wondrous variety is better fitted 

 for our country than for any other, and comes to greatest per- 

 fection in it. To despise it and neglect it is a mistake and a loss. 

 Those possessing good gardens would do well to grow and use 

 the more delicately flavoured forms and those best suited to 

 their localities, and thus lead the poor to a fuller knowledge of 

 things so easy for all to grow, and which yield so abundantly. 

 Under the best conditions, not a few of them are as good as any 

 vegetable that is grown, and, if rare, they would be sought as 

 delicacies. 



This question of cooking is undoubtedly of paramount importance, and 

 must necessarily have an immense influence upon the use of many other- 

 wise excellent vegetables, of which Cabbage is a typical example. It may, 

 therefore, not be out of place here to give a few indications as to the way 

 Cabbage is usually cooked and used in France, ist. As a soup (soupeaux 

 choux). r T}\Q head of a Cabbage or of a Savoy is freed of its outer leaves, 

 cut in two or four, washed and placed in cold salted water on the fire, 

 adding a few Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes, and a fair-sized piece of bacon or 

 ham. Let boil slowly at least three hours. 2nd. As a vegetable. The 

 head is cut into small pieces, washed, put in boiling salted water on the 

 fire, and cooked for half an hour, then placed in a strainer. Cook 

 sausages or lean bacon cut in small pieces, and when done add to the 

 Cabbage, and let all slowly simmer together until the time for serving. 

 3rd. As a garnishing. Take only the white heart of some Cabbages, cook 

 for half an hour as above, strain, mince and place in a stewpan with butter 

 and a little broth, and let simmer slowly until time for serving. * 



* Cabbages Clubbing, see p. 776. 



