74 MONTHLY JOURNAL OF AGRICULTURE. 



cutting nearly half way into the wood of the shoot, and then continuing it with 

 one clean, slanting cut, about half an inch or more above the bud, so deep as to 

 take off part of the wood along with it, the whole about an inch and a half long, 

 as in figf. 3 ; afterward cutting off at a the leaf under which the bud is situated, 

 leaving its foot-stalk attached to the bud, that by it you may hold it between 

 your lips while with your budding-knife the lines are cut in the stock, where the 

 bud is to be inserted, which should be at a place where the bark is smooth and 

 free from any bruises or knots, and on the side rather from the sun. Then di- 

 rectly with the thumb and finger, or point of the knife, slip off (according to the 

 English and European fashion,) the woody part remaining in the bud, which 

 done, observe whether the germ or eye of the bud remains perfect ; if not, and a 

 little hole appears in that part, it is imperfect, or, as the gardeners express it, 

 the bud has lost its root, and another must be prepared. Next, slip down the 

 bud close between the wood and bark of the stock tree, to the bottom of the slit. 

 The next operation is to cut off the top part of the shield or bark of the bud 

 even with the horizontal first-made cut m the bark of the stock, so as to let it 

 completely into its new residence, and to join the upper edge of the shield, with 

 the cross or transverse cut, in the stock, that the descending sap of the stock 

 may immediately enter the bark of the shield, and protrude granulated matter 

 between it and the wood, so as to effect a living union between the bud and 

 stock. The parts are now to be immediately bound round with a ligament of 

 fresh bass, previously soaked in water, to render it pliable and tough, or, as Mr. 

 Downing savs, with soft matting, to be lied firmly over the whole 



Fig. 5. O J ' a . 



wound, commencing at the bottom, and leaving the bud and the 

 foot-stalk of the leaf only, exposed to the light and air, as in fig. 

 5, not too tight, but just sufficient to keep the whole close, and 

 exclude the sun, air and wet. 



It will be seen by the above that according to the English and 

 European method of performing common shield budding, you are 

 cautioned to be careful to take out from the bark on which is the 

 bud the small piece of wood on which the bark is, and which 

 has served you up to this time to keep the bud and bark from 

 drying and shrinking ; but this " nice matter," as it is called, it 

 is important to bear in mind, is altogether dispensed with in 

 the American mode of shield budding ; and the " American mode of shield 

 budding," says Mr. Downing, (whose works we ought to presume form a part 

 of every gentleman farmer's library,) " is found greatly preferable to the Euro- 

 pean mode, at least for this climate. Many sorts of fruit trees, especially 

 plums and cherries, nearly mature their growth, and require to be budded, 

 in the hottest part of our summer. In the old method," says Mr. D. " the bud 

 having only a shield of bark, with but a particle of wood in the heart of the bud, 

 is much more liable to be destroyed by heat than when the slice of wood is left 

 behind in the American way. Taking out this wood is always an operation re- 

 quiring some dexterity and practice, as few buds grow when their eye or heart- 

 wood is damaged. The American method, therefore, requires less skill, can be 

 done earlier in the season, with younger wood, is performed in much less time, 

 and is vmiformly more successful. It has been very fairly tested upon hundreds 

 of thousands of fruit trees in our gardens for the last twenty years, and, although 

 practiced English buddcrs coming here, at first are prejudiced against it, as being 

 in direct opposition to one of the most essential features in the old mode, yet a 

 fair trial has never failed to convince them of the superiority of the new one." 



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