500 



FARMERS' REGISTER 



[No. 8 



La Candeur. 



Due de Cumberland. 



Double yellow. 



Bouquet. d'Orange. 

 Due de Berri d'Or. 

 Ophir. 

 Louis d'Or. 



Single yellow. 



Princess Charlotte. 

 Croesus. 



Double red, 



Bouquet tendre. 

 Groot Voorst. 

 Marquis de la Coste. 

 Coaite de la Cosle. 



Single red. 



Cochineal, crimson. 

 La Balaine, rosy. 

 Lord Wellington, rosy. 

 L'Eclair. 

 Mars, crimson. 



Double blue. 



Grand Vedette, pale. 



Martinet. 



Habit Brilliant. 



Comte de St. Priest, pale. 



Single blue. 



La Crepuscule. 

 Grand Vedette. 

 L'Ami de Cceur. 



From the Genesee Farmer. 

 TRANSPLANTING FRUIT TREES. 



This is commonly considered as one of the most, 

 difficult operations in the culture of fruit trees; but 

 if properly performed is very rarely attended with 

 any difficulty or risk. It is a very common opin- 

 ion that a transplanted tree must of necessity con- 

 tinue nearly stationary in its growth lor a year or 

 two after the operation, or at best make but com- 

 paratively little progress. A tree, however, pro- 

 perly transplanted, will experience very little check 

 in its growth, and often apparently none. Hence 

 the very great importance of the operation being 

 well understood. Much has been written in ex- 

 planation of the theory of successful transplanting; 

 but we merely intend here to give a brief descrip- 

 tion of the practice which experience has proved 

 to be uniformly attended with success, and the 

 most obvious principles on which it is founded. 



There are two great, points to be observed in re- 

 moving trees from the soil; first, to preserve the 

 spongioles uninjured; and secondly, to prevent 

 evaporation, by which the tree becomes dry, and 

 if carried to excess, beyond recovery. 



1. Preservation of the spongioles. These are 

 the minute spongy extremities of the smallest fi- 

 brous or branching thread-like roots, through 

 which, as mouths, the tree receives fluids and 

 other nourishment from the soil, and not through 



the surface and sides of the roots as is sometimes 

 supposed. As these spongioles are exceedingly 

 delicate in their organization, a very slight degree 

 of violence injures or destroys them. The more 

 carefully therefore trees are removed ii'om the soil, 

 and the more entire the fibrous roots, the greater 

 will be the number of uninjured spongioles remain- 

 ing, and better will the tree be supplied with nour- 

 ishment alter it is planted again in the soil. And 

 hence the absurdity of the practice, which has 

 been recommended by some writers, of cutting oft' 

 most of the small fibrous roots because they can- 

 not be easily replaced in their natural position in 

 the soil. 



2. In order to prevent evaporation, the roots 

 should never he suffered to become dry, but as 

 soon as removed from ihe ground, they should be 

 enveloped in some damp substance; wetted straw 

 serves well for a temporary protection. But when 

 intended to be conveyed to a distance, and there 

 is a probability of their being several days out of 

 the ground, damp moss should be employed in 

 packing about the roots, as straw is liable to fer- 

 ment if kept long in a wet state. Previously to 

 packing them in the moss, it is an excellent prac- 

 tice to immerse the roots in soft mud or a mixture 

 of the soil and water, so as to coat their surfaces, 

 after which dust or dry sand is to be sprinkled co- 

 piously over ihem to complete the coating. 



The holes for receiving the trees shoukl be dug 

 large — not less than five or six feet in diameter at 

 the very least, and eighteen inches deep. The 

 hard and steril subsoil should be thrown out, and 

 its place supplied with rich mould or muck. 

 Where the holes arc dug in ground in grass, 

 the turf which is removed from the surface may 

 be inverted in the bottoms. If manure is placed 

 in them, it should be well rotted, and should never 

 be allowed to come in contact, with the roots, but 

 should be placed in the bottom, at the surface, and 

 in the more remote parts. The tree should in 

 general be set a little deeper than it originally stood, 

 but not more than two inches; the roots should be 

 spread out, horizontally in all directions, so as firm- 

 ly to brace the trees when they become large; mo- 

 derately moist and finely pulverized earth should 

 then be gently shaken in about them, so as not 

 to disturb the position of the fibres, until the hole 

 is filled. Care should be taken that all the inter- 

 stices among the roots be perfectly filled, so as not 

 to leave the smallest cavities; and throwing in the 

 earth in large quantities should for this reason be 

 especially avoided. In order that the soil may be 

 gently packed on every side of all the roots, it is 

 very useful when the soil is inclining to dryness, to 

 pour in a quantity of water as soon as the roots are 

 covered, and then the remainder of the earth sho- 

 veled in, which latter prevents the surface from be- 

 coming hard by baking. After the operation is fin- 

 ished, a stake should be set in the ground leaning 

 towards the tree, to which it should be tied with a 

 band of matting or of straw, to brace it firmly in 

 an upright position. 



Placing the tree leaning a little towards the 

 south or southwest, or with the most projecting 

 branches in that direction, will prevent the trunk 

 being injured by the action of Ihe rays of the sun 

 in hot summer afternoons, an evil which is 

 sometimes so serious as to cause the death of the 

 tree. 



Autumn is ordinarily the best time for removing 



