22 



BEE 



BEE 



ered as before, and boil your first 

 run. When it has boiled smartly 

 for half an hour, put in your hops, 

 and boil it another half hour, or till 

 it breaks or curdles, as it will when 

 it is sufiiciently boiled. Or you 

 may put ^lour hops into a thin 

 coarse linen bag, leaving room for 

 them to swell, and boil them the 

 first half hour in the wort, which I 

 take to be a better method. 



When your wort is boiled enough, 

 strain it into your coolers, in which 

 the thinner it lies the better, as it 

 will cool the faster. 



The next thing is to put the wort 

 into the tun, an open vessel, to fer- 

 ment. If very fine and clear drink 

 is desired, the sediments in the 

 coolers should be left behind, and 

 strained through a flannel bag : For 

 the less of the grounds go into the 

 tun, the purer the beer may be ex- 

 pected to be in the cask, and the 

 more easily fined. 



That which is intended for long 

 keeping, should be almost or quite 

 cold before it is put into the tun, 

 because a slow fermentation will 

 be most proper for it. But ale, or 

 small beer, for speedy use, may be 

 put up a little warm. 



Then stir in your barm, or yest, 

 a pint of which is enough for a bar- 

 rel. If the fermentation be too 

 slow, beat in the yest once or 

 twice, but not oftener,lest the drink 

 should be injured by it. 



In two or three days the beer 

 will purify itself by throwing up 

 the lighter parts to the top in a 

 white curled foam, and precipita- 

 ting the heavier and fouler parts to 

 the bottom. It should then be 



tapped just above the lees, and, 

 having taken off the yest, the beer 

 must be drawn off into the casks 

 in which it is to be kept : Which 

 should stand with the bungs open, 

 till the fermentation ceases, and be 

 kept constantly full, not by pouring 

 in that which runs over with the 

 yest at the bung hole; but with 

 some of the same beer kept in a 

 vessel by itself. Thus it will throw 

 off the yest, and deposit a dreggy 

 part sufficient for the beer to feed 

 upon in the cask. Reserving the 

 yest for use, bung the casks close 

 as soon as the working ceases. If 

 the brewing be done in October, 

 the bungs should not be taken out 

 till spring. Then open the vent 

 holes : For the coming of warm 

 weather will cause a new fermen- 

 tation. This being over, keep the 

 casks well stopped till September 

 following : Then fine it with isin- 

 glass, first racking it off, if it be not 

 pretty fine. 



But for ales and small beers, it 

 may answer well enough, to omit 

 the tunning, and remove the wort 

 from the coolers directly into the 

 casks ; observing to keep them 

 full, that they may purge them- 

 selves of the yeast. 



Butt beer of the strongest kind, 

 takes eight bushels of malt for a 

 barrel. But a smaller quantity 

 will make a pleasanter and whole- 

 somer drink. The same quanti- 

 ty will make a barrel and a half 

 of good strong ale ; or six barrels 

 of small beer. 



Receipt for brewing for a pri- 

 vate family* 



Take four bushels of malt, and 



