47fci 



VI N 



VIN 



each way, that there may be room 

 to train the new shoots the fol- 

 lowing summer. And in the spring 

 tlie borders must be digged as be- 

 fore. 



" The third season, you must go 

 over the vines again, as soon as 

 they begin to shoot, to rub otT all 

 danglers as before, and train the 

 strong shoot? in their prop^^r places, 

 whicli m:\y be supposed to be two 

 from each shoot of last year's wood. 

 Bui il they at'.empt to produce two 

 shoota lr:^m each eye, the weakest 

 of them niuat be rubbed off. If any 

 of theift produce fruit, as many 

 times they will the third year, 

 vou should not stop them sO soon 

 as is generally practised upon the 

 bearing shoots of old vines; but 

 permit them to shoot forward till a 

 month after mid-summer, at which 

 time you may pinch off the tops of 

 the shoots : For if this were done 

 too soon, it would spoil the buds 

 for the next year's wood, which in 

 young vines must be more care- 

 fully preserved than on older 

 plants. 



" During the summer, you must 

 constantly go over your vines, and 

 displace ail weak lateral shoots as 

 they are produced, and carefully 

 keep the ground clear from v/eeds, 

 that the shoots may ripen well." 



After three years, the vines are 

 considered as grown up ; and con- 

 cerning the management of grown 

 up vines, the same writer says; 

 *' Vines rarely produce aiiy bear- 

 ing shoots from wood that is more 

 than one year old ; therefore great 

 care should be taketi to have such 

 wood in every part of the trees ; 

 for the fruit is always produced up- 



on the shoots of the same year, 

 which come out of the buds of the 

 last year's wood. 



" The best method is to shorten 

 the bearing shoots to about four 

 eyes in length, because the lower- 

 most seldom is good, and three 

 buds are sufficient ; for each of 

 these will produce a shoot, which 

 generally has two or three bunches 

 of grapes : So that from each of 

 those shoots may be expected six 

 or eight bunches, which are a suffi- 

 cient quantity. These shoots must 

 be laid about eighteen inches asun- 

 der, for if they are closer, when the 

 side shoots are produced, there will 

 not be room enough to train them 

 against the wall. 



" At the winter pruning of your 

 vines, you should always observe 

 to make the cut just above the eye, 

 sloping it backward from it, that if 

 it should bleed the sap might not 

 tlow upon the bud. And where 

 there is opportunity of cutting 

 down some young shoots to two 

 eyes, in order to produce vigorous 

 shoots for the next year's bear- 

 ing, it should always be done ; be- 

 cause in stopping those shoots 

 which have fruit on them, as soon 

 as the grapes are formed, which is 

 frequently practised, it often spoils 

 the eyes for producing bearing 

 branches the following year, and 

 this reserving of new wood is what 

 the Vignerons abroad always prac- 

 tice in their vineyards. The best 

 season for pruning of vines is about 

 the middle or end of October. 



" The latter end of April, or 

 the beginning of May, when the 

 vines begin to shoot, carefully look 

 them over, rubbing otT all small 



