WIN 



W I N 



509 



and this second running is but little 

 infeiior to the first, in flavour or co- 

 Jour. It has the advantage in this, 

 that it has a stronger body, and will 

 keep a longer time. Sometimes 

 they mix the wine of the tirst and 

 second pressings. 



" After the two first pressings, 

 the sides of the cake of grapes are 

 cut down perpendicularly, with a 

 steel spade, so far as they exceed 

 the breadth of the upper part of 

 the press, which is let down upon 

 the cake. The grapes that are cut 

 off are laid on the top of the cake, 

 and tlje third pressing, commonly 

 called the first cutting, is given. 

 The juices of this first cutting are 

 excellent. 



" A fourth pressing, a fifth, &c. 

 which are called a second and third 

 cutting, &c. are afterwards given, 

 the sides of the cake being cut 

 ddwn and laid up each time, till 

 the grapes cease to yield anymore 

 juice. 



" The liquor of the cuttings be- 

 comes gradually more red, because 

 the press becomes more forcible 

 on the skin of the grapes, particles 

 from which render the wine red. 



"The wines of these did'crent 

 cuttings (as the latter pressings are 

 called.) are collected separately, 

 and afterwards mixed according as 

 they contain more or less of the 

 quality that is wanted. 



" The pressings for white wine 

 r-hould be performed as quick as 

 possible one after another, that the 

 grapes may not have time to heat, 

 nor the iiquor remain long upon the 

 murk. Particular attention is paid 

 to this for the two first runnings, 

 because fJr:.ev arc thetine«t wine. 



" Of the same black grapes, the 

 black morillons, the pineaus, and 

 the auvernats, of which white wine 

 is made in Champaign, red wine is 

 made in Burgundy. 



" As much as the heat of the sun 

 is avoided by the vintagers who 

 make white wine, so mneh it is 

 sought after and chosen by those 

 who make red wine. These gather 

 their grapes when the sun shines 

 hottest ; because its action on the 

 outside of the berries has more ef- 

 fect than several days steepiiig in 

 the vat. as the grapes then ferment 

 very speedily. Tiie other cau- 

 tions in gathering grapes for white 

 wine arc observed here. 



" Some express the juice of these 

 grapes in the open air, in the vine- 

 yard, or near it, by throwing the 

 bunches into large tubs, and there 

 mashing and bruising them to pie- 

 ces with sticks, or putting children 

 into the tub?, to tread out the juice. 

 Others carry them home, observ- 

 ing not to bruise them by the way, 

 and put them in a vat, in which 

 they are trodden and mashed. This 

 is repeated, in either case, till the 

 vessel is full ; ^fter which the bro- 

 ken grapes lie in the liquor more or 

 less time, according to the heat of 

 the weather, the flavour of the 

 must, and the degree of colour in- 

 tended to be given to the wine. 

 During this time, the whole is 

 frequently stirred together, the 

 better to raise a fermentation, and 

 tinge the liquor with a due degree 

 of red. 



" Some say the grapes should lie 

 in the liquor forty-eight hours, 

 while others talk of letting thcni in- 

 fuse seven or eight days, or longer. 



