LIMA. 57 



In a few minutes more we found ourselves passing under 

 the great gate of the city. Its aspect is that of rapid de- 

 cline ; there is no stir or life among the inhabitants ; many 

 of the shops are closed, and hundreds of houses are un- 

 tenanted, and in a state of decay. The streets are broad 

 and paved, and many of them have a stream of water run- 

 ning through their centre. It is not, however, a clean- 

 looking city, for these streams are used for very disgusting 

 purposes, and buzzards are seen feeding all over the city. 

 The style of building is well adapted to the climate and 

 nature of the country. Most of the dwellings are of two 

 stories, with a spacious court in front ; the main object of 

 these courts, is to afford the inhabitants a place of refuge 

 when the city is threatened with earthquakes, which is a 

 very frequent occurrence. The material employed in the 

 construction of the walls, is sun-burnt brick. The roofs 

 are perfectly flat, and the ground-floor is used as store- 

 rooms and stables. 



The population is estimated at 40,000. In the time of 

 the Viceroys, it is said to have been 70,000. 



The Grand Plaza contains several acres, and should be 

 visited by the stranger, if he wishes to form a correct idea 

 of a life in Lima. From sunrise to sunset it is filled with 

 people. On two sides of the Plaza stand the portales, or 

 arcades, where all kinds of dry-goods and fancy articles 

 are sold. The cathedral and the arch-bishop's palace oc- 

 cupy the east side of the plaza, and that of the viceroy's 

 the south side ; this last has now become the residence of 

 the presidents, and, although it covers a great extent of 

 ground, there is nothing very attractive in its architecture. 

 The fountain in the centre of the plaza is a splendid piece 

 of work, and was erected, according to the inscription, in 



