<A JOURNEY IN THE EAST: 279 



were shown several jackals' earths, and some which, according 

 to the good people, belonged to wolves ; but as we could not 

 get the dachshunds to go into them, we went back to the 

 steamer and soon resumed our journey. 



Before long we came to a point where the Nile makes 

 a sharp bend, and the mountains on both sides keep drawing 

 in, until at Gebeleh they descend to the stream in abrupt 

 cliffs, the rocks, ravines, and stony slopes of the high and 

 barren Gebel-nisse, on the Arab side, being particularly fine 

 and picturesque. 



We were enjoying this beautiful landscape from the deck, 

 when I observed a dead buffalo lying on a sandbank sur- 

 rounded by vultures ; and by the help of the glass I could 

 see among the Griffon Vultures the enormous Sociable 

 Vulture, that true native of inner Africa. 



Unfortunately the wary birds would not let the steamer 

 come within range of them ; so we at once stopped, and the 

 Grand Duke and I went ashore. Some bushes near the bank 

 afforded sufficient cover ; and there we patiently waited, 

 hoping that the imposing Sociable Vultures would return to 

 their interrupted meal. But, alas ! nothing came but a pair 

 of greedy Egyptian Vultures, one of which I killed with the 

 rifle. At the noise of the shot several swarthy and almost 

 naked fellaheen came running up inquisitively, to whom we 

 gave directions to lay out carrion for the vultures at this spot 

 every day, and in no wise to disturb them, as I wanted to 

 try my luck with the Sociable Vultures on my way back. In 

 consideration of a good backsheesh the worthy people promised 

 to carry out our wishes. 



On the 6th of March the steamer arrived at Edfu, where we 

 at once rode across the fields to the poor-looking village close 

 by, and passing through some narrow dirty streets reached 

 its further side, where, amidst heaps of dirt and debris, 

 stands the best-preserved temple of Upper Egypt, and one 



