280 EXTRACTS FROM 



of the most beautiful architectural memorials of all the 

 ages. 



After examining every part of the building we went up to 

 its flat roof, where we had a lovely view of the Nile, the green 

 plains, the wide flats of the desert, which begin near the 

 temple, and the pyramidal sandstone hills, which rise behind 

 them. 



Some vultures were circling overhead; so I laid out a 

 carcass behind a heap of ruins, and sat waiting on the battle- 

 ments of the temple for the coming of the great birds of prey ; 

 but unfortunately no large vultures appeared, and as time was 

 pressing I had to content myself with the smaller fry. 



We now rode back by the same route through this filthy 

 village, and a few minutes later our vessel was steaming up- 

 stream again. 



The general appearance of the country continued to be 

 pretty much the same. The eastern Arab mountains, which 

 are here low, jagged, and whitish grey in colour, everywhere 

 advanced close to the stream, leaving little or almost no margin 

 of cultivated land. The western Libyan hills, also low, yellow, 

 and strangely shaped, kept drawing nearer to the river south 

 of Edfu ; and on this side the green country got narrower 

 and presented a scene of luxuriant but neglected vegetation, 

 while there were no towns whatever and even the few wretched 

 villages were very far apart. 



Large flocks of Storks were flying northwards along the 

 Nile valley, birds of prey were sitting on the rocks or circling 

 above them, and the few sandbanks of the river were peopled 

 by wildfowl. 



In the afternoon we came to the rocky narrows of Gebel- 

 Silsileh, where the sandstone mountains converge from both 

 sides, and delight the traveller who gazes at these picturesque 

 but stern and gloomy desert regions from the deck of his 

 vessel. By sunset we reached the northern extremity of a 



