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crocodile, which was the creature consecrated to this god, is 

 therefore often represented in the sculptures and alluded to in 

 the inscriptions of this place. 



At sunrise we left the beautiful Kum-Ombu and continued 

 our journey to Assuan. Towards noon the scenery assumed 

 a still wilder character, and ahead of us the river seemed to 

 be blocked by the mountains. Large stones, masses of rock, 

 and rubble bordered the stream, which kept getting narrower 

 and narrower ; while the mountains on the right bank gave 

 place to a barren plain strewn with masses of rock and studded 

 with jagged pinnacles. On all sides sharp ledges of rock, the 

 first indications of the adjacent cataracts, rose above the water, 

 and the steamer had to make its way slowly through these 

 difficult places before it could lay to under a high dusty bank 

 in front of the town of Assuan. As soon as it had done so, 

 we landed. 



Assuan is undoubtedly one of the most interesting spots of 

 the whole Nile journey. Our first visit was paid to the 

 bazaar, where the life and bustle of the place offered much 

 that was interesting ; and I was especially struck with the war- 

 like look of the Ababdehs, who were armed to the teeth, clad 

 in scanty rags, and had their hair arranged in a peculiar 

 fashion. The various races of wild folk regarded us with 

 curiosity ; and the crafty Arabs sold us wares from the 

 interior at a high price, cleverly profiting by the interest we 

 displayed in them. 



The Ababdehs also performed their war-dance before us, on 

 an open space between the houses and the landing-place ; and 

 the brown fellows, with their scanty garments, nose-, ear-, and 

 arm-rings, and hair wound round sticks, which stood out like 

 rays, looked most original : it was a dance of savages, as 

 fantastic as could be imagined. 



After a time we returned to the steamer, with a rich store 

 of purchases and highly interesting impressions. 



