'A JOURNEY IN THE EAST: 287 



racts are not waterfalls but rapids, where the river foams and 

 roars as it seeks a way through the thousands of rocky islets, 

 crags, and reefs with which its bed is studded for more than 

 half a mile. The whole scene is undeniably magnificent, and 

 its peculiar charm is still further heightened by the remark- 

 able forms and the blackness of the reefs and ridges which 

 rise above the white seething waters. It is also interesting 

 to see the Nile, usually so sluggish and turbid, changed for 

 a short time into a wild mountain-torrent. 



As soon as we had reached the best point of view a number 

 of naked Nubians appeared, who sprang into the water and, 

 avoiding the rocks, let themselves be carried through the most 

 furious of the channels. In a few moments they were swept 

 down a long way with the speed of an arrow, and then they 

 emerged from the water dripping and clamouring for back- 

 sheesh. We now went back to the boat, and after rowing a 

 little further up-stream mounted our donkeys, which were 

 ready waiting, and returned to Assuan by the same route 

 that we had taken in the morning. 



This excursion had occupied the entire day, and not until 

 late in afternoon did we reach our steamer. We then dined 

 at once, and afterwards Hoyos and I went out, just as twilight 

 was coming on, to the hiding-places which we had made use 

 of last evening. This we did by the advice of my jager, who, 

 while we were at Philse, had found the fresh tracks of a Hysena 

 near the remains of the carcass. 



It was a fine night, and as I had determined to shoot at 

 nothing but hyaenas, and to wait until they came, I was pre- 

 pared to remain out until a late hour. Several jackals 

 appeared, and were allowed to pass unmolested ; but just 

 as it was getting on for midnight, and I was having a hard 

 fight against sleep, I saw in the clear moonlight some people 

 slink by not far from my ambush, and soon heard several 

 shots and the familiar cackle of the unlucky decoy-hens. 



