'A JOURNEY IN THE EAST: 319 



We had to look at every bit of it, and were conducted over 

 the fort as well; and after our inspection went home in the 

 steamer, stopping on the way and rambling with our guns 

 through a long narrow island covered with sand and studded 

 with clumps of thick bushes. There I shot a specimen of the 

 beautiful Pallid Harrier and a few small water-birds. 



This island is separated from the mainland by a muddy 

 branch of the river, so shallow that the great flocks of sheep 

 and goats which feed on its bushes can easily be driven over. 

 On its banks we also found some most miserable fishing-huts; 

 but we soon left this shooting-ground and returned to the 

 steamer, lunching on our way home. 



On the morning of the 23rd, I drove through the town and 

 the Arab quarter to the tombs of the Caliphs. At the outer- 

 most houses where the carriage road ends we mounted 

 donkeys, and riding through the cemetery soon reached the 

 foot of the high cliffs of the Mokattam hills. We had 

 now again to follow the same path that we had trodden some 

 weeks before, and, climbing up the cliffs, were soon seated in 

 the small and very uncomfortable ambush. 



After three long hours of perfect quiet some Kites and 

 Egyptian Vultures appeared, and these creatures were just in 

 the middle of their meal, when I heard the heavy flapping 

 of some great bird's wings. The smaller visitors at once 

 dispersed in alarm, and a large Griffon Vulture settled with 

 half-closed wings on the back of the ass, and forthwith began 

 its breakfast. 



Without a moment's delay I knocked it over, and creeping 

 out of the cave took the heavy bird on my back and clambered 

 down the crags, rocks, and loose stones to the spot where the 

 servants were waiting with the donkeys. Thence we pro- 

 ceeded homewards, and returned to Kasr-el-Nusha by noon. 



After lunch and a short rest the Grand Duke and I resolved 

 to pay a visit to the Shubra gardens; so, taking our guns with 



