1 A JOURNEY IN 2 HE EAST.' 333 



footprints of the Redeemer. Near the chapel stands a minaret, 

 and from its top there is a splendid view of Jerusalem and of 

 the chain of grey-green steppe-like hills which separate the 

 plateau, the immediate neighbourhood of the Holy City, and 

 Bethlehem, from the valley of the Jordan. In the far distance 

 one gets a glimpse of the high mountains east of the Jordan 

 and the Dead Sea, and, through the dip of a valley, even of 

 a little bit of the dark blue surface of that lonely inland 

 sea. 



From the valley of Kedron we rode back towards our 

 camp by the walls of the city, but at the slaughter-yards I 

 dismounted and made an unsuccessful attempt to stalk an 

 Egyptian Vulture. Hundreds of large vultures were circling 

 overhead, and dogs were wandering about the blood-stained 

 place, which had such an abominable smell that I was com- 

 pelled to beat a hasty retreat and get back to the tents through 

 some olive-gardens. 



We dined early, as Count Caboga and I intended to go on 

 to the Maltese Hospice at Tantur in the afternoon, while the 

 rest of the party were to join us at Bethlehem, though not 

 until the following day. 



I had now to leave Jerusalem, and, taking a farewell look 

 at the grey walls of venerable Zion, I drove away with Count 

 Caboga along the excellent road to Bethlehem, which runs 

 from the Damascus Gate near our camp, and passes close 

 under the ramparts of the western part of the city. 



At the entrance to the valley of Kedron the road winds 

 among stony flats, sparingly covered with bushes and scanty 

 grass, and by ruinous garden-walls, stunted olive-yards, and 

 dilapidated houses. On the right one sees the barrack-like 

 buildings of the German colony, and on the left barren deso- 

 late hills, the prettiest view being the look back at the high 

 walls, battlements, and towers of the Holy City. 



The road then gradually ascends the opposite slope of the 



