6 A JOURNEY IN THE EAST: 339 



this way. It is, however, just what bears do, and I feel con- 

 vinced that it was one of the Syrian isabelline-coloured bears, 

 mentioned by Brehm in his ( Thierleben' as occurring in 

 Palestine, that had played us this trick. Had there been a 

 full moon we should have had a splendid night's sport, but as 

 it was I went back to breakfast at the castle annoyed and out 

 of spirits. 



There was a good deal of life on the road. Caravans of 

 asses and camels coming in from the country laden with pro- 

 visions for the market at Jerusalem, and interesting types of 

 men and women in their gay costumes. Our baggage and 

 the whole train of pack-animals, under the leadership of Mr. 

 Howard, soon came up from the Holy City, where the camp 

 had been struck in the morning. They passed the castle on 

 their way to Bethlehem, where our next camp was to be 

 pitched. The gentlemen, however, were to spend the morn- 

 ing in the city, and would not get to Tantur before noon. I 

 employed the spare time in watching for large birds of prey 

 at an ambush, and had the donkey's head brought up to the 

 hut, as I intended to poison this last remnant of our noble 

 jackass and use it the following night. 



Large flocks of storks were passing from south to north, 

 and soon appeared the daily string of vultures, which come 

 from the mountains round the Dead Sea to pick up carrion at 

 the towns, especially at Jerusalem. We saw hundreds of 

 them, flying one after another, and also a few eagles, in the 

 course of the forenoon; but unfortunately our hiding-place was 

 too near the highroad where there was a good deal of traffic, 

 and numbers of these great birds circled round without daring 

 to descend. Only one Egyptian Vulture had the temerity to 

 pass close to the hut several times, and at last forfeited his 

 life. 



After this I went back to the castle, and with Count Caboga 

 .awaited the arrival of my fellow-travellers, who soon came 



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