'A JOURNEY IN THE EAST: 373 



an exceptionally exuberant growth of vegetation, which formed 

 a green band extending across the plains and down to the 

 Jordan. There being only one spot where the stream could 

 be forded, we had to ride a long way up the south side of the 

 valley, and then just the same distance back along the north 

 to the place where it debouches into the great plain. There 

 our camp was to be pitched under a curiously shaped rocky 

 cone, close to the edge of the vegetation. 



The gentlemen had already reached the spot, but the cara- 

 van had not nearly come up, so we had the pleasure of awaiting 

 the arrival of the pack-animals in a hollow which afforded a 

 little shade. Some of the party employed the time in looking 

 for a place to bathe in ; but the large stream was so overgrown 

 with succulent plants much above a man's height, and sweet- 

 smelling oleanders with large red flowers, that one could hardly 

 get to the water. Moreover, the whole surroundings of the 

 place looked like a stage-scene of a serpent's haunt in the 

 tropics ; and I have such an immense respect for the veno- 

 mous reptiles of such regions, that I preferred bathing in a 

 small though somewhat dirty branch of the stream, where I 

 could first thoroughly examine the locality, and where I 

 should only have the society of harmless toads and frogs. 



On returning from bathing we found that one of the tents 

 and the canteen were already on the ground, so that we were 

 soon able to breakfast, though the heat was terrible, and we 

 were surrounded by swarms of large and disgusting flies. 

 We arranged that the afternoon was to be devoted to sport, 

 and that some of the gentlemen were to follow the stream 

 downwards into the great plain, while the Grand Duke and I 

 were to proceed upwards towards the interior of the valley. 



Guided by Salim and the other sheikh, we tried to beat the 

 thickets along the banks, being further encouraged to do so 

 by the sight of some wild boars' tracks. It was a perfect 

 garden that we entered, full of flowers, luxuriant bushes, large- 



