<A JOURNEY IN THE EAST: 385 



flat rocks, bushes, and oak woods ; and from the slope on its 

 further side we had our first view of Nazareth, lying deep 

 down in a bare stony valley. Passing through some 

 wretchedly paved narrow streets we reached the other end of 

 the little town ; but I was unable to visit the Church, the 

 famous Chapel of the Annunciation, and all the other holy 

 places, as the doctor had forbidden me, on account of the fever, 

 to go into any cold cellar-like buildings. 



We found our mess tent pitched on an open space, and 

 part of the caravan spread about among the grass, but most 

 of the mules had already gone on to Jaffa with our baggage. 

 A hasty lunch was now taken, and we then got into some 

 low vehicles drawn by horses, which were here awaiting us. 



It is a good many years since this carriage communication 

 between Jaffa and Nazareth was established by a Swiss 

 contractor. The road, if one can so call it, defies all descrip- 

 tion, and we were almost shaken to bits over the stones and 

 rocks in going up and down the steep hillsides. We crossed 

 some chains of little hills covered with stunted oak woods and 

 evergreen shrubs, and in the valleys between them were 

 marshy meadows in which the vehicles threatened to stick 

 fast. Fortunately the weather was fine and not too hot, and 

 the country was rather pleasant looking, for many of the 

 woods were even fairly luxuriant and full of flowers. 



After a long drive we reached the wide plain which extends 

 along the bay, at the northern point of which is the celebrated 

 town of Acre ; while the southern cape is formed by the high 

 Mount Carmel, which slopes down abruptly to the sea at 

 Jaffa. The plain is well cultivated, and even pretty fruitful 

 along the banks of the little river of Nahr-el-Mukatta. 



During the last hour that we spent in Asia we suffered 

 tortures from the deep ruts of the terrible roads. Heavy 

 clouds were forming on the horizon, the sun became obscured, 

 and a cold sea-breeze seemed like a first greeting from that 



2c 



