34 CHILOK. 



which live on the leaves of the cane and certain 

 trees. It was one of these huntsmen who, by- 

 chance, discovered, a few years since, an English 

 vessel, which had been wrecked on the outer coast. 

 The crew were beginning to fail in provisions, and 

 it is not probable that, without the aid of this man, 

 they would ever have extricated themselves from 

 these scarcely penetrable woods. As it was, one 

 seaman died on the march from fatigue. The 

 Indians, in these excursions, steer by the sun ; so 

 that, if there is a continuance of cloudy weather, 

 they cannot travel. 



The day was beautiful, and the number of trees 

 which were in full flower perfumed the air ; yet 

 even this could hardly dissipate the effect of the 

 gloomy dampness of the forest. Moreover, the 

 many dead trunks, that stand like skeletons, never 

 fail to give to these primeval woods a character of 

 solemnity, absent in those of counti-ies long civil- 

 ized. Shortly after sunset we bivouacked for the 

 night. Our female companion, who was rather 

 good looking, belonged to one of the most respect- 

 able families in Castro : she rode, however, astride, 

 and without shoes or stockings. I was surprised 

 at tlie total want of pride shown by her and her 

 brother. They brought food with them, but at all 

 our meals sat watching Mr. King and myself whilst 

 eating, till we were fairly shamed into feeding the 

 whole party. The night was cloudless, and, while 

 lying in our beds, we enjoyed the sight (and it is a 

 high enjoyment) of the multitude of stars which il- 

 lumined the darkness of the forest. 



January 23d. — We rose early in the morning, 

 and reached the pretty, quiet town of Castro by 

 two o'clock. The old governor had died since our 

 last visit, and a Chileno was acting in his place. 

 We had a letter of introduction to Don Pedro, 



