ARAUCARIAN INDIANS. 43 



lono- black hair, the gi-ave and much-lined features, 

 and the dark complexion, called to my mind old 

 portraits of James I. On the road we met with 

 none of that humble politeness so universal in Chi- 

 loe. Some gave their " mari-mari" (good morn- 

 ing) with pi-omptness, but the greater number did 

 not seem inclined to offer any salute. This inde- 

 pendence of manners is probably a consequence of 

 their long wars, and the repeated victories which 

 they alone, of all the tribes in America, have gained 

 over the Spaniards. 



I spent the evening very pleasantly, talking with 

 the padre. He was exceedingly kind and hospi- 

 table, and, coming from Santiago, had contrived to 

 surround himself with some few comforts. Being 

 a man of some little education, he bitterly com- 

 plained of the total want of society. With no par 

 ticular zeal for religion, no business or pursuit, how 

 completely must this man's life be wasted ! The 

 next day, on our return, we met seven very wild- 

 looking Indians, of whom some were caciques, that 

 had just received fi-om the Chilian government 

 their yearly small stipend for having long remain- 

 ed faithful. They were fine-looking men, and 

 they rode one after tlie other with most gloomy 

 faces. An old. cacique, who headed them, had 

 been, I suppose, more excessively drunk than the 

 rest, for he seemed both extremely grave and very 

 crabbed. Shortly before this two Indians joined 

 us, who were travelling from a distant mission to 

 Valdivia concerning some lawsuit. One was a 

 good-humoured old man, but, from his wrinkled, 

 beardless face, looked more like an old woman than 

 a man. I frequently presented both of them with 

 cigars, and, though ready to receive them, and I 

 dare say grateful, they would hardly condescend 

 to thank me. A Chilotan Indian would have taken 



